Best Block to build off of?
#16
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If you want a cheap block, get a burned non ic one for the bigger bowl pistons. Higher hp builds are putting them in for running a lot of timing. This way the spray pattern is within the bowl and not burning the pistons causing meltdowns and scaring of the walls.
Stick with whatever head you have, which is most likely a 12v head. 12 valves are easier on the drivetrain. When they did a comparison of a 12v head p&p and a 24v p&p, they flowed darn near the same numbers. They were matched when the 12v got bigger valves.
Somethings to think abour
Stick with whatever head you have, which is most likely a 12v head. 12 valves are easier on the drivetrain. When they did a comparison of a 12v head p&p and a 24v p&p, they flowed darn near the same numbers. They were matched when the 12v got bigger valves.
Somethings to think abour
#17
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Yeah i was plannin on bigger valves and the porting to be just as good or better than a 24 valve head. Less moving parts to wear out with a 12 valve also. Plus I still see the majority of truck pullers running 12 valve motors still so that proves something
#18
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BUT, when you get into the serious pullers (a competitive 2.6 truck or better) you see more variety. At most decent pulls, there are more P-Pump 24V trucks that you can shake a stick at. It's a proven setup as well. The 24V head does have more parts to wear out, but that's usually not an issue in a puller as the motors are torn down and refreshed frequently.
But you're on the right track for sure. If you are building a street truck, you can't go wrong with the simplicity and reliability of a top-to-bottom 12V. I look forward to seeing the build.
#19
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Douglas, I hear ya' on the VE-ed 6.7, buddy.
I have a shortblock located.
Mark.
#20
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Like has been said the '98 and up has the 2nd turbo drain. It is called a STORM block. It also has 12mm mains vs. 14mm for the older ones.
STORM means "straight thread o-ring metric". Which means the sensors/ports in the block are an O-ring fitting rather than NPT. They have the "new style" block heater as well.
Basically 12v/24v blocks are the same. The newer ones have crank sensor provisions. The common rail blocks are different.
STORM means "straight thread o-ring metric". Which means the sensors/ports in the block are an O-ring fitting rather than NPT. They have the "new style" block heater as well.
Basically 12v/24v blocks are the same. The newer ones have crank sensor provisions. The common rail blocks are different.
#21
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Sure it proves something...it proves that the P-Pump 12v is the easiest and cheapest way to build a competition diesel truck. Why would anyone go buy a VP44-crippled 24V when they can get a solid junkyard P-Pump 12V for the same price as the weak IP alone off a 98.5-02 24V? If money is an issue, the 12V is the choice most people make. That's why there are so many of them.
BUT, when you get into the serious pullers (a competitive 2.6 truck or better) you see more variety. At most decent pulls, there are more P-Pump 24V trucks that you can shake a stick at. It's a proven setup as well. The 24V head does have more parts to wear out, but that's usually not an issue in a puller as the motors are torn down and refreshed frequently.
But you're on the right track for sure. If you are building a street truck, you can't go wrong with the simplicity and reliability of a top-to-bottom 12V. I look forward to seeing the build.
BUT, when you get into the serious pullers (a competitive 2.6 truck or better) you see more variety. At most decent pulls, there are more P-Pump 24V trucks that you can shake a stick at. It's a proven setup as well. The 24V head does have more parts to wear out, but that's usually not an issue in a puller as the motors are torn down and refreshed frequently.
But you're on the right track for sure. If you are building a street truck, you can't go wrong with the simplicity and reliability of a top-to-bottom 12V. I look forward to seeing the build.
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