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Best Block to build off of?

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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 05:50 PM
  #16  
ARbowhunter7's Avatar
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From: Dallas, GA
Originally Posted by dieselJon
If you want a cheap block, get a burned non ic one for the bigger bowl pistons. Higher hp builds are putting them in for running a lot of timing. This way the spray pattern is within the bowl and not burning the pistons causing meltdowns and scaring of the walls.

Stick with whatever head you have, which is most likely a 12v head. 12 valves are easier on the drivetrain. When they did a comparison of a 12v head p&p and a 24v p&p, they flowed darn near the same numbers. They were matched when the 12v got bigger valves.

Somethings to think abour
True, but have you priced a good P&P job lately? I suggested a 24v head because there would not be a need to P&P the head at VE-level power. I would flow plenty until you went to another IP.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 05:53 PM
  #17  
92smokin blacky's Avatar
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Yeah i was plannin on bigger valves and the porting to be just as good or better than a 24 valve head. Less moving parts to wear out with a 12 valve also. Plus I still see the majority of truck pullers running 12 valve motors still so that proves something
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #18  
ARbowhunter7's Avatar
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From: Dallas, GA
Originally Posted by 92smokin blacky
Yeah i was plannin on bigger valves and the porting to be just as good or better than a 24 valve head. Less moving parts to wear out with a 12 valve also. Plus I still see the majority of truck pullers running 12 valve motors still so that proves something
Sure it proves something...it proves that the P-Pump 12v is the easiest and cheapest way to build a competition diesel truck. Why would anyone go buy a VP44-crippled 24V when they can get a solid junkyard P-Pump 12V for the same price as the weak IP alone off a 98.5-02 24V? If money is an issue, the 12V is the choice most people make. That's why there are so many of them.

BUT, when you get into the serious pullers (a competitive 2.6 truck or better) you see more variety. At most decent pulls, there are more P-Pump 24V trucks that you can shake a stick at. It's a proven setup as well. The 24V head does have more parts to wear out, but that's usually not an issue in a puller as the motors are torn down and refreshed frequently.

But you're on the right track for sure. If you are building a street truck, you can't go wrong with the simplicity and reliability of a top-to-bottom 12V. I look forward to seeing the build.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:06 PM
  #19  
Mark Nixon's Avatar
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From: Palmyra, Nebraska
Originally Posted by dieselJon
When they did a comparison of a 12v head p&p and a 24v p&p, they flowed darn near the same numbers. They were matched when the 12v got bigger valves.
Air flow is one thing, a more centrally located injector and a straighter, cleaner, shot at the piston bowl means much less chance of fuel outside the bowl, ergo more power.

Douglas, I hear ya' on the VE-ed 6.7, buddy.
I have a shortblock located.

Mark.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:17 PM
  #20  
CaptainChrysler's Avatar
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From: Ida Grove, IA
Originally Posted by 92smokin blacky
so will a 2nd gen block work? or even a 24 valve block?
Like has been said the '98 and up has the 2nd turbo drain. It is called a STORM block. It also has 12mm mains vs. 14mm for the older ones.

STORM means "straight thread o-ring metric". Which means the sensors/ports in the block are an O-ring fitting rather than NPT. They have the "new style" block heater as well.

Basically 12v/24v blocks are the same. The newer ones have crank sensor provisions. The common rail blocks are different.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 12:33 AM
  #21  
92smokin blacky's Avatar
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Originally Posted by ARbowhunter7
Sure it proves something...it proves that the P-Pump 12v is the easiest and cheapest way to build a competition diesel truck. Why would anyone go buy a VP44-crippled 24V when they can get a solid junkyard P-Pump 12V for the same price as the weak IP alone off a 98.5-02 24V? If money is an issue, the 12V is the choice most people make. That's why there are so many of them.

BUT, when you get into the serious pullers (a competitive 2.6 truck or better) you see more variety. At most decent pulls, there are more P-Pump 24V trucks that you can shake a stick at. It's a proven setup as well. The 24V head does have more parts to wear out, but that's usually not an issue in a puller as the motors are torn down and refreshed frequently.

But you're on the right track for sure. If you are building a street truck, you can't go wrong with the simplicity and reliability of a top-to-bottom 12V. I look forward to seeing the build.
Precisely I don't wanna tear this motor down every season. It will compete a little but I just want it to lay some big numbers down on the dyno with the VE pump and prove something. I just want the "something different" factor.
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