Best Block to build off of?
#1
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Best Block to build off of?
Well I've been thinkin about this for a while and I want to find another cummins block and start building up a motor to swap into my truck, and I can put the motor thats in my truck now into another truck like maybe a 78-79 ford (unless it scatters) or maybe my dads 55 ford F250 2wd.
I've seen cummins blocks or motors that are burned down for fairly cheap. But I was wondering if all the cummins blocks are the same or if they are a little different? I know not to get a 53 block When I'm done with this motor, which may be a long time it will still be a 12 valve and it will still have a VE pump (probably a 14mm though and maybe a few other things)... so will a 2nd gen block work? or even a 24 valve block? a 1st gen block would probably be the best to build off of cuz I can maybe get it with a few parts I need like the VE front case/cover. But is there any difference in the non i/c and i/c blocks or is it just the heads? Basically all I need is a 12 valve block, head, pan, and front cover and almost all the rest of the internals will be custom, machined or aftermarket. Lookin to go big or go home with this motor and I'm just gonna work on it here and there when money and time allows over the next few years. Just wonderin what block is the best and what I should look to get this summer when I find a good deal.
Oh and I can't tell you my top secret plans but it won't be a 5.9 when its done...
I've seen cummins blocks or motors that are burned down for fairly cheap. But I was wondering if all the cummins blocks are the same or if they are a little different? I know not to get a 53 block When I'm done with this motor, which may be a long time it will still be a 12 valve and it will still have a VE pump (probably a 14mm though and maybe a few other things)... so will a 2nd gen block work? or even a 24 valve block? a 1st gen block would probably be the best to build off of cuz I can maybe get it with a few parts I need like the VE front case/cover. But is there any difference in the non i/c and i/c blocks or is it just the heads? Basically all I need is a 12 valve block, head, pan, and front cover and almost all the rest of the internals will be custom, machined or aftermarket. Lookin to go big or go home with this motor and I'm just gonna work on it here and there when money and time allows over the next few years. Just wonderin what block is the best and what I should look to get this summer when I find a good deal.
Oh and I can't tell you my top secret plans but it won't be a 5.9 when its done...
#2
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Just as you said, stay away from the 53 block.
All 12v blocks are the same. The only difference between i/c and non i/c is the piston bowl size and shape. I would assume all 24v blocks are similar as well, regardless of a VP44 or a CR system. Don't think the 24v block would work with a 12v head but I think I've read about others making it work the other way around, 24v head on a 12v block. I could be wrong though.
EDIT: I take some of that back. An article in the latest Diesel Power covers a drag truck built by Dr. Performance which utilizes a 12v block with a 24v CR head...
All 12v blocks are the same. The only difference between i/c and non i/c is the piston bowl size and shape. I would assume all 24v blocks are similar as well, regardless of a VP44 or a CR system. Don't think the 24v block would work with a 12v head but I think I've read about others making it work the other way around, 24v head on a 12v block. I could be wrong though.
EDIT: I take some of that back. An article in the latest Diesel Power covers a drag truck built by Dr. Performance which utilizes a 12v block with a 24v CR head...
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If nothing else, you'll probably be the first person on earth to have a 406 ci Stroker Cummins with a VE pump
FWIW, I'd bolt a 24v head onto it (maybe off a 53 block truck). They flow like a champ so as long as you stayed with the VE pump you should never need to get it ported.
FWIW, I'd bolt a 24v head onto it (maybe off a 53 block truck). They flow like a champ so as long as you stayed with the VE pump you should never need to get it ported.
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I guess I could always get a head off a different truck if I got just a block... I guess I'll see what I find. I think I will stick with the 12 valve head. I have heard they will handle more power, the intake log will be chopped off and it will be ported to the max. I read that a pretty ported 12 valve head will outflow a stock 24 valve head.
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Do the 2nd gen blocks have the freeze plug at the bottom towards the back that a lot of people pop out and use as an oil drain for twins? I know mine doesn't have one but my buddy's 98 12 valve does that he is puttin in a ford. It may be kinda nice to have unless I put the drain in the pan. Did they come out with that in 98 or all 2nd gens have em?
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If I could find a 6.7 block for the right price then I would go that route but not sure I could find one. How much bigger is a 6.7 block vs. A 5.9 block? Would it bolt up and fit in my truck just fine? It cant be too much bigger. If not with a torch and a welder there is a way
#11
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If you want a cheap block, get a burned non ic one for the bigger bowl pistons. Higher hp builds are putting them in for running a lot of timing. This way the spray pattern is within the bowl and not burning the pistons causing meltdowns and scaring of the walls.
Stick with whatever head you have, which is most likely a 12v head. 12 valves are easier on the drivetrain. When they did a comparison of a 12v head p&p and a 24v p&p, they flowed darn near the same numbers. They were matched when the 12v got bigger valves.
Somethings to think abour
Stick with whatever head you have, which is most likely a 12v head. 12 valves are easier on the drivetrain. When they did a comparison of a 12v head p&p and a 24v p&p, they flowed darn near the same numbers. They were matched when the 12v got bigger valves.
Somethings to think abour