aeronb

I figured a fuel pin would give more performance than it does. Did I fall for the hype? "40 hp and 100 ft lbs"

aeronb

I got scared. When I pulled the top off the pump, the diaphragm wouldn't come out. According to BD, so you don't tear the diaphragm, they want you to tug up on the nut with some plyers. It didn't want to come out. I pried it up with a flat blade under the big washer that's clamping the rubber part. Well, it took more force than I would have liked. Now one of the instructions called for pulling on the throttle to check the little pin inside was contacting the new fuel pin in the right spot and that would help it get lined up correctly. Well, the little pin wasn't coming out to play down inside that bore where the new fuel pin was going to live. I tried some lube down in there, and I tried poking at it with a screw driver, but nothing got it to come out. What can I do now but put it back together as best as I know how?

Now it's time for a test drive. We get out on the road and not much power. 0-60 times have gone from 11 seconds before working on the truck, on up to 17 seconds. Boost pressure is down to no more than 10 PSI. I guess that pin moving in and out freely is kind of important. Well, long story short, after some more disassembly and other screwing around with 0-60 attempts - including power brake starts - something broke loose and I got all my power back. Tried several more 0-60 runs but I was lucky if I gained 1/2 second on the ET.

It ain't faster, but it will now do burnouts with all four rear tires - on dry pavement! The initial kick really feels better. Boost pressure is up too. Before it was topping out at about 22 PSI and now I see 29 PSI. Is that right? Should it see boost pressure increase with increased fueling? After all this I played around with the smoke control screw and turned up the max power screw too. Idle speed is up now to about 1050 or so. Did you know that idle screw is hard to get at, LOL? Now back out for some 0-60 fun. Lots of smoke at first kick but it clears pretty quick. ET is essentially unchanged. Is it time for some injectors? I'd love to hear from you.

thanks,
Aeron

Boatnik

One of the first mods I did. Only complaint is the Bully Dog pin I bought was too soft. The pin that rides on it cut the groove deeper. Upside to that is it allows total movement of the small pin. I polished the pin to prevent it from hanging up. Watch your exhaust gas temperatures after installing the pin and turning up the fuel. The pin install is straight forward but alignment with the small pin in the IP is important. Also the ramp may not be exactly right and require shimming.

aeronb

I've been watching the EGT. Since I got the head gasket done and I put the 4" exhaust on, it doesn't get above 900. Before it could go to 11 or 12 hundred. But, and this is a big but, when I changed the exhaust manifold the thermocouple wouldn't fit into the predrilled hole. I should have just drilled it out, but I got a new one that fit. It is a little shorter than the old one and I am worried that it reads different.

u2slow

You got BD's pin and spring kit right? Have you installed the spring? IMO, it does more than the pin...

aeronb

I did get the spring too. It's not in yet. I'm not really looking forward to doing the job either. I got ahold of Diesel Tuff about some injectors and a turbo housing. For towing, and as my truck sits now, they suggest 5x12 injectors and a 12cm waste gated housing. I think I'd like to do that and get the rest of what I've got all tuned in and leave it at that. Hopefully tonight I can get the idle screw turned down, bump up the timing a little, then I'll start working on smoke control some. I assume that if at some point when I get the Diesel Tuff stuff I'll have to re-tune.

u2slow

If I were to do my mods over again, I would have done the spring much sooner.

I suggest picking up a Bosch VE gasket kit. Good chance of tearing a gasket or it not sealing again. I got fed up with the idle screw... I took it out, cut a slot in the end, and put the jam nut on the front side. Re-indexed the throttle one notch to leave room for the extra space it takes up. Now its easier to get at and adjust.

My pump is advanced about 1/8" from the stock marks. It was like that when I got the truck 7 years ago.

It was cheaper for me to buy a used WH1C/HX35 (incl. 12cm w/g housing) than to buy a new 12cm housing for the H1C. There's some talk that the small ex housing on the H1C compressor (no MWE ring) can have issues with surging
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ussion-330812/

aeronb

Good to know, thanks. And, that thread that you referenced was one I had been reading earlier. Looks like a lot of good info. I must admit, I don't understand a whole lot of it. I'm just hoping to get some basic advice on picking a couple parts that work to make a little bit of power. It's fun to take a coworker or someone else for a ride and hear them say "whoa". While I'm at it I'd like to avoid some of the pitfalls and expense of those mistakes.