cougar

After the HE351W plan went down the toilet, an HX35 became available to me.
Did a search and wondering what is good and what's bad, or just won't work for my application.
60-62 mm compressor wheels in 6, 7, and 8 blade, but what about the exducer and trim part? Not familiar with what role they play?
And turbine wheels? 10 blade, 12 blade. Any advantages there?
Please limit the discussion to the HX35 as other turbo option are pretty much unavailable (out of reach) to me.

u2slow

They all 'work' on a 1stgen. So does the very similar WH1C.

The 7-blade version (01-02? all 24v's?) is supposed to flow more air, but needs the outlet swapped to use a 1stgen downpipe.

pics here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...flange-299516/

edwinsmith

I have the wh1c on my 89. It spools much faster than the original. I also put a boost cheater valve to make it go higher and I can set it with a **** what my maximum boost will be. IMHO, whatever you get HAS to have a wastegate.

Edwin

cougar

Kinda like trying to grocery shop in a 7/11, not much of a selection if anything at all up here. Got an early (95-98) HX35 coming. Shipping is the killer, not cheap like it is down there.

BHD

I put an HX35 on my FireWagon. Awesome up grade for the money. The turbo was off a 2001 24V, so I picked up the correct exhaust housing flange for the 1st downpipe from EKG Diesel. I nailed the wastegate shut and it works great for my application.

oliver foster

What sort of boost are you seeing with the waste gate closed?
I know the way I have Poncho's fuel tuned I would be way higher PSI's than I want to be. I disconnected the waste gate line while tuning it and I saw 40 and climbing rapidly still at 3/4 throttle on a test run. I ended up using a Banks Big Head waste gate on my WH1C, basically a HX-35, and have it set to open at 32-34 now. I would be fine with 30 PSI as it runs pretty cool, but just have not adjusted it yet. I could not get the stock waste gate on it to hold anything much over 20, even with adjusting it.

Edit:
I have a HX-35 on Poncho, the '89 RC has the rebuilt WH1C

nascar mark

There is a reason why when we have the PDR 35/40 built that it is built with nothing bigger than a 58mm wheel...... yes, I know some others put larger wheels in the 35 but that doesn’t make it right or more efficient.
The 35 starts choking past a 58mm.....flow doesn’t go up with a bigger comp wheel, it just cavitates. That’s why all the larger wheel turbo’s from Holset go to a larger frame turbo as size goes up.
PM me if you want to try a PDR hybrid & 12WG turbo.....I’ll work something out with you.

cougar

With my current setup, I can hit 45PSI in a heartbeat closely followed buy 1600° on the EGT.
The HX35 I have coming already has the correct flange. I have a 4" exhaust to go with it already. Just want to upgrade the HX for more air.

BHD

It tops out about 40 psi. I have the normal pump mods, plus a stage 2 Denny T. EGTs will hit 1400 on long hard pulls in top gear, but I rarely drive it that hard. During normal cruising at 70 - 80 mph its under 15psi

Gumby79

Sounds like you are running into the low efficiency part of the compressor map. Same air mass with thermal expansion showing higher PSI witch the AFC adds more fuel based on your fuel tune curve. Trying to put 45lbs in a 30lb bag =heat expansion with less than 25lbs fitting in. its an air density issue. Check into your IAT's... 1° increase IAT =+3°EGT

Alec

Intake air temperature is super important. So is the governed RPM you have set. An engine with no intercooler and a 3200 spring in his pump is going to be able to see really high boost numbers, but it doesn't mean that it is a recipe for horsepower or driveability.

Back in the early 00's it was pretty easy to say, do this to your truck and you will get this result. Now, there are very few stock trucks, and a much wider variety of pump settings, injectors, turbos, compressor wheels . . . .

My understanding is that, generally speaking, reducing the number of blades will give you faster spool, because of the reduced rotating mass, and similar or better performance at the higher mass flow (high rpm, high boost) but lesser performance at the lower mass flow (so, not so desirable for towing, etc.).

I apologize, I have forgotten what you are "going for" with your truck . . .?

cougar

Towing is the primary purpose of the truck so I need to get the EGT down while maintaining a decent amount of power.
The turbo has arrived and it turned out to be the newer HX35W instead of the older HX35. The W has the 7 blade, which I think is better than the 8 blade of the straight 35.
But still will going to a bigger wheel alone lower my EGT?

Boatnik

I don't know much about turbos in general but I opted to go with HTT Stage IV modification on my H1C with a 16cm2 exhaust housing. With match porting the exhaust housing to an aftermarket manifold and 4 inch pipe I see 43 to 45 pounds WOT with H2O and meth. However I peg my EGT gauge in a few seconds. I am running a stock IC and plumbing. I was wondering if the HX35 would have been be a better option. DieselDude4X4 is running one on his 24 valve and it is awesome.

u2slow

I have not tried changing wheel sizes. My used WH1C and HX35's have so far been cheaper than any new alternate-size ex housings. (i.e. 14-16cm). So 12cm w/g it is.

I can tow what I need and simply ease off or downshift if the EGTs get high (5 speed).

edwinsmith

Have you considered water/meth injection? I bought my non-IC truck for towing a 5th wheel trailer. I always figured I would use water/meth injection for pulling up long hills for a bit extra power and to keep EGT's down.

Edwin