Monty

Well, its ball joint time. I had been noticing some wierd front tire wear and finally got around to checking it out today. Quite a bit of play between the spindle and ball joints. Enough to make you not want to drive the thing.

So, any pointers on replacing the uppers and lowers? Any special tools needed or anything to watch out for? I have heard that they are a screw in type ball joint, is this right?

Ive got the MOOG upper and lower ball joints ordered and should be in tommorrow.


NottoogoodatfrontendworkMonty

Tommy93w350

I'm in the same boat, I've got to replace a ball joint or two. My driver's side tire is wearing very fast on the inside and somethings wobbling through the steering and into my teeth.

How hard are the joints to replace? Who has best quality and affordable?

loch

LOL i went and had mine replaced, but if im not mistaken one is screw in the other is not,but keith changed all 4 in an hour ,only tool i saw him use other than ordinary was the fork tool on the bottom,he loosened the top let the weight hand ans smacked it ,it came off second hit

12valve@heart

Sounds like you're in for some fun. I did all 4 ball joints on mine plus the upper and lower control arm bushings, shocks, and brakes all at the same time last summer.

The upper ball joints screw in and are VERY bad about cross-threading or stripping threads. It takes a special ball joint socket to remove and reinstall the uppers (properly). My recollection is that it's a 4 point socket around 2-3/16" ID. Snap-On, Mac, Matco all should have it but I was fortunate enough to have a mechanic friend that I could borrow one from. The tool is a standard Chrysler ball joint socket. One of my uppers was starting to strip and would not tighten so I'm looking at a new upper control arm next time. I like the suggestion that I saw of using a SMALL tack weld to keep it from moving. Wish I had done that and may still do it.

Seems like the lower ones pressed in. I had the benefit of having them off the truck to do the control arm bushings so I did mine in a press but I think that a standard ball joint press (or any number of other improvised methods) would work for installing them.

I used Moog parts from NAPA and was happy with the quality. Just check out the control arm bushings, wheel bearings, brakes, and shocks while you've got it apart. No time like the present to fix it all.

Holler if you need more info.

Lil Dog

12valve@heart said it all.

I did mine with a large cresent wrench and a snipe. The replacement joints are a tad bigger than OEM and tight. If your uppers just thread end by hand, I would suggest getting new upper A arms as they aren't that expensive. A little loctite blue in there doesn't hurt either.

I had my ball joints done so many times in my 89 (4 sets) that finally the upper joint popped out on me on the freeway I had the shop weld it in until they could get new parts, scary..

The lowers can be done with a good ball joint press. I rented a kit from the local parts store, but the pressing in was tough with the new joints.. I eventually used a porta-power jack to press in the lowers.

After doing the set in my 93, I vowed to let the shop do it next time. They have a hoist and a dry floor..

Good luck Monty..

J-eh

frostie

Yep, screw in they are. I did mine about a year ago. Of coarse did not know they screwed out at the time. so after I heat them to get them out and installed new ones, they lasted about 6 months then started coming loose. I replaced the upper A-arm in the one that came loose. the A-arms are the same for many years before 89 Just that the diesels have a different joint. After properly installing the new one I tac welded it in 3 places, I may regret it but no more problems.
I used a pipe wrench on mine. But the proper socket would have been nice to have.
Live and learn. Good luck

Monty

Thanks fellas. The springs and control arm bushings have all been replaced. Had a shop do them about 2 years ago. Now, ive just gotta find the special socket and I will be in business.

So, the top screw in and the bottom joints press out? I wont have access to a press so a big hammer and a good drift may have to do.

12valve@heart

Right. On the bottoms, out is easy with a big enough hammer. Going back in is the "fun" part but you can probably prop a length of 4"x4" block under the ball joint and "drift" the lower control arm down over it. Just an idea.

BTW, I think that the correct socket is usually 3/4" drive so you might want to make sure that you have access to an adapter or 3/4" drive ratchet/breaker.

Good luck.

carl20320

One of the earlier post mentioned that the socket is a "standard" Chrysler ball joint socket. There are actually 2 Chrysler ball joint sockets. One, the smaller one, was used on some cars. The other one, the one you need, it the larger of the two. Good luck finding it reasonably priced. I hunted on ebay and finally ended up picking a new one up on some auction for about $20.

Carl

Monty

Thought I would post an update. Started on the truck Thurs. and finished up the passenger side in about 3 hours. Started on the drivers side Friday evening and ran into a big problem. Found the inner bearing locked to the spindle and the race spinning in the hub. Both are beyond a practical repair.

So, Im waiting on a $750 spindle and hub to come in from Memphis.


Carl, thanks for the socket. As soon as I get it back and going I will ship it back.

wannadiesel

Any idea about the bearing before you tore into the job?

carl20320

I had the same thing happen on my driver side when I bought the truck. It literally ate bearings ... at the rate of 1/year. Finally ended up replacing the spindle as well. I found one in a junk yard. Has been up and going well for 4+ years now.

No problemo on the socket, Monty. Just send it back when you are done. Like I said, I hope not to need it for awhile. I'm glad someone is using it. That was what I bought it for.

Carl

Monty

No idea Dave. No squealing or any noise was coming from it. My dad was just into his 93 1 ton and found his inner race spinning in the hub as well. I dont know if this is due to putting to much pre-load on the bearing by the previous owner or what. Whatever it was, it was a high priced mistake. Someone had been into mine before. Every race was a Timken except for the inner race that was spinning and it was a Bower. I tried driving in a new Timken race and it just spun as well. The book calls for a 30lb ft torque and then back off and tighten by hand.

Im pretty sick about it, but, the damage is done so the only thing to do now is pay the piper.

Monty

Well, the truck has been up and running for a week now. The install was simple as well as the removal. I went back in with all new Timken bearings on both sides, upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, new drivers side spindle and hub . I have never in my life had so many problems with getting the right parts as I did with this. First off, the parts store gave me the wrong wheel seals, then the wrong lowers, and then the wrong uppers....twice!!! I caught the lowers before I installed them, but I didnt catch the uppers. Apparently, the uppers that I recieved were for a 3/4 ton but in the wrong box which showed it to be a 1 ton upper. Luckily, the control arms are fine and the parts store had agreed to buy me a new set if they were bad.

But, she is all back together now.