kensmachine

NJT putting a seal kit is not a rebuild. there are lots of things that happen to these pumps. yes the the oring get hard over time and leak. But it's also very common to have the plumper springs for the head and rotor broken most fuel Inj shop's will not take a VE apart without putting new ones in . The throttle shaft bushing on most of the old pumps is bronze and ware bad the update is a hardened steel bushing.I think the DGK-121 is just your base VE seal kit. works no lots of pumps. Ken

Morsel

I decided to only do that head o ring seal. Just to bide a little time until I can afford to get a new/rebuilt pump. The job doesn't look all that horrible

Morsel

Update on this VE pump issue of mine,
I decided to ship this pump of and have it rebuilt. I let the rig sit for about a month before I finally got to getting the money together and the pump packed up and shipped out. I figured If the rear head O ring seal leaked it's a pretty good bet there rest of the seals in there are headed south. I had Redding Fuel Injection in Redding CA. do the rebuild. SUPER nice people! Fast turnaround! I am impressed so far with their company.
I got the pump back and set it on the bench and in an amongst all the crap I have going on in my shop and that pump literally glows! Beautiful, clean and shiny new, completely rebuilt. BOSCH everything, looking good.
I spent a couple hours today pulling the fuel filter and getting the pump back in its home. Below are a few pictures of whats what. From all the research I did regarding this job I didn't read hardly a thing about how fussy getting that keyway on the pump to line up what the slot on the pump gear. It is not easy to do and IMO it requires a lot of patience and an old motorcycle mirror to make sure it is seated correctly . I talked to a mechanic friend of mine who works mostly on diesels and he told me it is VERY common shade tree dudes install injection pumps misaligned and end up shearing off the keyway and then have to pull the pump back out and fix everything.
I got the pump in this afternoon and lined everything up. I plan on advancing the pump just a hair toward the intake. I have read this is optimal for the 5.9. I haven't plumbed the lines and I will do that tomorrow. Below are a few pictures.. Hopefully some of this thread will help someone out who does this pump r and r.
a couple key things..
The absolute most important thing is make sure that keyway is lined up with the slot on the pump drive gear. If you use a mirror you can see if it is installed correctly. Below is a picture of what it should look like when the key is in the slot..
Clean the gear housing and pump shaft keeping it free of oil, grease or any debris. Put in a new seal.. Should be supplied with the rebuild (mine came with one.)
Barring the motor over to TDC should be done only with the pump installed. If you pull the pump and then for some reason think you need to barr it over to TDC you risk jumping a tooth on the pump gear then you will be pulling the front cover to get it back where it belongs. I talked to a guy who did this and he jumped a tooth.
If the rig was not set to TDC and you get a NEW pump it is safer (IMO) to unlock the new/rebuilt pump and turn it until you get the keyway looking like it is lined up with the drive gear. Then as you seat it make any adjustment with the motor to ket it lined up perfectly and then install the pump on the gear then check with a mirror. Then install the little clip and it should be good to go. This keeps it in time.
It did seem odd to unlock the pump prior to it being in the motor. So theres that.
If I missed anything or anything sounds out o wack please add or correct.

j_martin

Cost???

Morsel

Sorry, forgot to add that in that rant
$875. My pump needed a new supply pump so that was an additional $250 or so. Redding Fuel Injection gets $600 for a rebuild and then goes up according to what needs replacing

edwinsmith

Using the barring tool with the pump off IS THE PROPER WAY TO DO IT! The gear won't jump a tooth unless the engine is upside down. The pump should have been shipped to you with the timing set. Then you bar the engine over to TDC and push the pin in under the case. Then you install the pump and rotate it to take up the gearlash and tighten the three nuts to lock the pump in place. This way your timing is set.

This is all explained in the Video from Chrysler that you should have watched.

Morsel

I saw that and read extensively on the proper procedure. However, a couple trusted mechanics I know have seen that pump gear drive jump a tooth from barring that motor over when the pump is out. It seemed to me it was certainly possible with the way that pump gear moved around in there that is it was susceptible to moving a tooth or three. I could be wrong. And so could they

edwinsmith

See the video in three parts here:

Morsel

Makes perfect sense.

maybe368

One trick is to rotate everything 180 degrees and put the woodruff key on top. I didn't do it that way, but there a a few posts on dtr that explains it...Mark

Morsel

I think they do that do keep the key from falling out and into the timing components when you either pull it or put it back in.

maybe368

Yes, that is my point, it makes it a lot easier to install the ip...Mark

edwinsmith

When I put my rebuilt pump in the key was very tight in the shaft and wouldn't have fallen out under normal circumstances. If it's loose you could stake the shaft next to the key with a center punch to make it tight.

Edwin

Morsel

a competent pump rebuilder seats that woodruff in there so it wont move or fall out like edwin said with a center punch to make it tight. I read the factory keyways are often quite loose and are more likely to fall out or move around when pulling the pump.
When I pulled my original pump the keyway was barely hanging on! For a shade tree mechanic the 180 degree rotation with the keyway on top is a very good idea like maybe368 said above.

Morsel

update..
Bled the system out and it fired right up!
Doesn't have to be on TDC as long as you get the woodruff keyway lined up correctly and seat it on the gear without any fuss, then torque down that nut to 18flbs initially then to 48ftlbs when all is good
On the pump install mine slid right on without any fuss. I had the pump I pulled rebuilt and thats what I put back in.
I adjusted the timing slightly by moving the line on the pump just slightly toward the intake. The pump builder company said this would be optimal. He was right. Runs great! A bit more power right off the line.