DGinGA

Bought a 2000 RAM 2500 last year (173K). My first diesel. The engine takes at least 10 minutes to warm up. After waiting for the Start light to go off, it starts right away. In gear, it won't rev above 1000 RPM or so. If I rev it at 1500 RPM in neutral, the blue smoke is so dense, neighbors have called the fire department. The colder outside, the worse it is. After letting it warm up for 5 minutes or so and limping along at idle speed, it does eventually warm up and run fine. The seller said that all 2nd gen RAMS do this - being new to diesels, I bought that (dumb).
Took it to a Dodge dealer last week, who said the injector pump was 'weak' and should be replaced ($3500). The fuel Xfer pump was OK 'for the moment'. Any experts out there?

BigIron70

sounds like oil getting into combustion chamber. Rings or turbo seal leaking.

Busboy

My 2001 did it from new when very cold, if left to idle the engine cannot produce enough heat to even maintain engine temp even with a winter front on it. The engine temp decays until the fuel is not burned properly then you have raw fuel running down the cylinder walls washing the oil away. Not good. I found the best thing to do was run synthetic everything including Power steering fluid, start it up and drive it. I always used the block heater and an interior warmer to keep the window clear when parking outside. If you must warm it up use a snow brush between the pedal and the seat to jamb the pedal at 1400-1500rpm. Not sure when it was brought in but you may be able to read codes by turning the key on/off/on/off/on and the codes read in the odometer. Code 0216 is the VP44 injector pump that's most common.

luke03cr

I was under the impression that blue smoke was indication of a cold combustion mixture, unlike in a gasser?? If its the injector pump and im not saying it is, they are raping u on that price. blue chip diesel sales them for around 1k. Injector pumps are common on 2nd gens, but u need to do the ignition key trick and get us sum codes so we can better help u out. Its located at the top of the 2nd gen thread colums.

patdaly

No expert, but smarter than that dealer. Pumps don't start running better when they warm up. First thing, look up the key on code reading trick and see if there are any codes, or go to an AutoZone and have them scan for codes and report them back here.

As others have said, these things won't warm up by idling, you actually hurt them more than you help. As for the blue smoke, is the truck using oil? If it is, you can pull the tube out of the Turbo and look for an oily residue that would tell you the Turbo is the source, just make sure you correctly reinstall the tube and tighten the clamps properly, otherwise you can blow it back off.

You really do need a fuel pressure gauge on the inlet of the pump, you could kill your IP if the lift pump dumps, truck will still run, but starve the IP. Oh, and if you need a LP, don't go to the dealer unless you want to be saddled with the intank conversion pump. Some here like it, but I have switched several back, the in tank pumps don't seem to have as big of an advantage in lifespan, and now you have to drop the stinking tank to fix it. I usually just go back with a replacement lift pump on the side of the block, but if it concerned you, you could go with one of many aftermarket pumps that are externally mounted.

mini14

my vp progressivly got worse over the years and the timing wasnt advancing and in the cold winter it would smoke like crazy and would not smoke when warm. ever since getting a new vp it can be -10 out and it smokes about 10% the amount it did before the new pump, that doesnt mean its your vp though, id still do a compression check.

nickg

pretty much a dead give away if the engine starts working properly once warmed up then the VP is finished, you can get a vp from just about any vender for 900-1100$, if your even 1/2 way handy with tools you can easily do this your self in a few hours, lots of posts on the net and even on you-tube serch for diesel dans video, well done and explains/shows how to do it. I would think even worse case if you have never done it before you can do it in 5-6hrs, after the first time youd be able to cut your time in 1/2

patdaly

Thanks guys, learned something today!

SIXSLUG

Before you go and throw a pump at it...what is the temps where you are having this problem? When it is in the 30's around here I start plugging mine in so I can have some defrost assistance in the mornings. As stated, diesels don't warm up by idling and it takes about 5 miles of acceleration and a winter front to even get the temp needle too move.

Even in -15F mine doesn't smoke much when starting cold, but I usually can plug it in.

Check for codes, or go to a reputable diesel shop in your area and have them check them.

As is the case, my local dealer changed hands a few years back and they no longer get my business. Sounds like yours is heading that way too with a $3500 pump job!

Busboy

My 2001 new blew so much blue smoke if left to idle when extremely cold you would have thought it was on fire, it never used any oil between yearly oil changes (synthetic) it still has the original VP and there is around 225,000km on it now and going strong.

SIXSLUG

Mine has never really smoked when cold, 118K miles and original pump.

I probably shouldn't a posted that!!

Busboy

I'm talking -35C and down, minus 20C not so much.

SIXSLUG

I don't think it gets that cold in GA.

He never answered me on the temperature where he lives.

DGinGA

Sorry for not filling in the picture. Lowest temp this winter here nr Atlanta was 21 F, but only for a few nights. Seldom stays that cold here. Very little smoke wjen its 70 or so, like today.
Got a code reading of 0216, "Fuel Injector Pump Failure". If the pump is bad, how does the engine run at all?

SIXSLUG

There's your problem. It'll run, then run poorly, then quit entirely.

Shop for a better price, then get a quality pump from a quality vendor like bluechipdiesel so its fixed right the first time. Also follow the advice to get a fuel pressure gauge and a new lift pump (LP) so you don't wreck your new injection pump (IP). It probably failed also leading to your IP failure

Sorry to hear you got the "death code".