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Anyone have crossover steering with 0-2'' lift?

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Old Aug 8, 2011 | 07:16 AM
  #31  
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From: Lloydminster SK/AB
Rebuilding the kingpins right now, steering is after that.
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #32  
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From: Englewood, TN
Want this thread to stay front and center until we learn if crossover steering will work on an unlifted truck.
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 09:13 PM
  #33  
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Hurry up I want to see that it fits!
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 12:52 AM
  #34  
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From: Lloydminster SK/AB
Haha, sorry guys still working on kingpins. Am on holidays right now and family comes first. Should start on the crossover early next week.
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:12 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by james1
Want this thread to stay front and center until we learn if crossover steering will work on an unlifted truck.
It does. I have bone stock main leaves in my truck (read FLAT ) While the truck has an added leaf or two ( approx 2" lift total ).

On my truck I had to build a taller steering arm on the axle to clear the taller spring pack. This steering arm was 1.5" tall.

If you had a totally bone stock truck, you would need steering arm that was less tall. You basically want the drag link to just BARELY clear the spring main leaf. If the truck was 1-2" lower than mine in the front ( like with sagging front springs almost on the bumpstops ) you could run into a situation where the steering arm could not be low enough. You then would have to run a steering arm that was raised slightly but with the TRE attached to the bottom.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #36  
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From: Englewood, TN
Question

Originally Posted by Mieser
) You then would have to run a steering arm that was raised slightly but with the TRE attached to the bottom.
Isn't your Tie Rod End connnected to the bottom of your steering arm?
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #37  
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Steering arm on the passenger side knuckle.

The TRE is attached to the bottom of the pitman arm at the steering box.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 10:29 AM
  #38  
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really toying with doing this.... did the insturctions say how long the install takes. looks like it would be pretty easy.
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #39  
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I did my conversion in about 6 hours. That included fighting with the pitman arm.

Note: Make SURE you get a pitman arm puller...don't try and get around that.

If you have all the parts on hand it goes pretty quick. Make sure you start spraying bolts and nuts with something ahead of time.

The most forward/top steering box bolt that holds the stamped steel bracket to the frame is a PIA to get off. I ended up cutting mine off with the gas axe.

Moving the steering box to the 2wd position on the frame is easier with two people. Its even easier still if you make two small studs to index the box on the frame while your buddy holds it in place. Once you get the other 2 bolts started, remove the studs with some vise grips. Then start the last two bolts.

Getting the steering shaft off the box input is much easier with the box off, especially the stock version.

Get a new kingpin bushing for the passenger side steering arm. They are cheap and should be replaced if given the opportunity. If your going to have a spring preload style arm, replace the spring or preload it with a washer. This will help tighten up the kingpins.
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #40  
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Mieser. Can you post the part numbers?

Thanks
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 05:15 PM
  #41  
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I hand built most everything for the crossover steering conversion I did on my truck. I pretty much had to do this to get stuff to fit.

Post #5 in this thread sums up what I did. If you have specific questions let me know.
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 05:24 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Mieser
I hand built most everything for the crossover steering conversion I did on my truck. I pretty much had to do this to get stuff to fit.

Post #5 in this thread sums up what I did. If you have specific questions let me know.

Well i was looking for a the part numbers for the tie rod ends and pitman arm. Maybe a link if you got them online.

I wonder if a stock 2wd pitman arm would work? I'm doing a 2wd to 4wd conversion.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #43  
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This is the pitman arm I modified.

http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet...MAN-ARM/Detail

Here are the TREs I used....

EX2234L tierod end GM taper 7/8"x 18tpi LH

http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 10:40 AM
  #44  
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From what I remember the 2wd pitman arm can work, but it is a little too short. This causes the drag-link to hit the crossmember under the engine on its front lip.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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Did you guys see these plates;
http://ramchargercentral.com/fabrica...rame-supports/

A little easier than cutting everything out your self.
Jim
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