Anyone have crossover steering with 0-2'' lift?
On my truck I had to build a taller steering arm on the axle to clear the taller spring pack. This steering arm was 1.5" tall.
If you had a totally bone stock truck, you would need steering arm that was less tall. You basically want the drag link to just BARELY clear the spring main leaf. If the truck was 1-2" lower than mine in the front ( like with sagging front springs almost on the bumpstops ) you could run into a situation where the steering arm could not be low enough. You then would have to run a steering arm that was raised slightly but with the TRE attached to the bottom.
I did my conversion in about 6 hours. That included fighting with the pitman arm.
Note: Make SURE you get a pitman arm puller...don't try and get around that.
If you have all the parts on hand it goes pretty quick. Make sure you start spraying bolts and nuts with something ahead of time.
The most forward/top steering box bolt that holds the stamped steel bracket to the frame is a PIA to get off. I ended up cutting mine off with the gas axe.
Moving the steering box to the 2wd position on the frame is easier with two people. Its even easier still if you make two small studs to index the box on the frame while your buddy holds it in place. Once you get the other 2 bolts started, remove the studs with some vise grips. Then start the last two bolts.
Getting the steering shaft off the box input is much easier with the box off, especially the stock version.
Get a new kingpin bushing for the passenger side steering arm. They are cheap and should be replaced if given the opportunity. If your going to have a spring preload style arm, replace the spring or preload it with a washer. This will help tighten up the kingpins.
Note: Make SURE you get a pitman arm puller...don't try and get around that.
If you have all the parts on hand it goes pretty quick. Make sure you start spraying bolts and nuts with something ahead of time.
The most forward/top steering box bolt that holds the stamped steel bracket to the frame is a PIA to get off. I ended up cutting mine off with the gas axe.
Moving the steering box to the 2wd position on the frame is easier with two people. Its even easier still if you make two small studs to index the box on the frame while your buddy holds it in place. Once you get the other 2 bolts started, remove the studs with some vise grips. Then start the last two bolts.
Getting the steering shaft off the box input is much easier with the box off, especially the stock version.
Get a new kingpin bushing for the passenger side steering arm. They are cheap and should be replaced if given the opportunity. If your going to have a spring preload style arm, replace the spring or preload it with a washer. This will help tighten up the kingpins.
I hand built most everything for the crossover steering conversion I did on my truck. I pretty much had to do this to get stuff to fit.
Post #5 in this thread sums up what I did. If you have specific questions let me know.
Post #5 in this thread sums up what I did. If you have specific questions let me know.
Well i was looking for a the part numbers for the tie rod ends and pitman arm. Maybe a link if you got them online.
I wonder if a stock 2wd pitman arm would work? I'm doing a 2wd to 4wd conversion.
This is the pitman arm I modified.
http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet...MAN-ARM/Detail
Here are the TREs I used....
EX2234L tierod end GM taper 7/8"x 18tpi LH
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail
http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet...MAN-ARM/Detail
Here are the TREs I used....
EX2234L tierod end GM taper 7/8"x 18tpi LH
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail
Did you guys see these plates;
http://ramchargercentral.com/fabrica...rame-supports/
A little easier than cutting everything out your self.
Jim
http://ramchargercentral.com/fabrica...rame-supports/
A little easier than cutting everything out your self.
Jim


