So i am biting the bullet, spoke with Alcan today and will be ordering 2'' lift springs tomorrow. This should help the crossover and the ride. I am getting the softest ride i can and using air bags to make up weight capacity. Also ordering Bilstein shocks all around, Only downside is Alcan is 3-4 weeks to build and a week to ship.

 

I'll have to measure mine after school. I have Skyjacker 2.5"s on the front according to the PO and I'm riding on 35's with 0mm ofset wheels and the fronts hit that joint that comes off the steering box and goes back to the knuckle on the driver side.....the tire has ripped the little boot on it and now grease is everywheres all over the inside of my tire.

I'd like to do this crossover steering one day, The hardest part seems to be finding the correct pitman arm to use because spaces between frame and leaf spring seem to vary alot

1990, is that drag link the one you buy from the same place Biltit did or did you make that?

 

Jeep WJ pitman arm is still the best option I think. Mine seems to sit higher than the Parts Mike version. I kinda have to wonder why?

The TRE on my setup is at the same level as the bottom of the steering box, if the spring is going to hit the TRE, it will hit the steering box.....

When I had stock steering my big tires ate my drag link TRE at the pitman arm. I think that is one reason I ripped the steering box frame bracket off so many times

 

I wonder if that isn't from the way they take out the master splines? I have a feeling if i spent some time with a file i could get mine up higher aswell.

 

I bought the ends and some DOM.

Did you brace you steering box after your conversion?




On mine there is still a 1/4" of spline from the top of the pitman arm. What can i do to move it up higher?

 

If you look at where they removed the master splines you might see they took them out abit crooked. With a file you should be able to smooth them up and gain some height on the steering box shaft.

This is from memory of course, i will be pulling mine and taking a look aswell.

 

Ordered springs and shocks. 4 week wait for springs........

 

Yeah i noticed the re-filing of the master splines. I'll take a look tonight.

I going to re-taper the 2wd pitman arm. Maybe try it, the only downside is i lose some turning radius. I think it's shorter then the WJ arm.

 

Okay. BILTIT you've done yeoman's work here but the bottom line is we've created a 13-page thread and we're still waiting on someone to produce a plug-and-play crossover kit for an unlifted truck.

Does NW Fab seem inclined to begin offering such a kit? Seems like you've already done all the research for them -- a WJ Pitman arm, a steering arm that's one inch shorter than the existing NW Fab unit, and the current NW Fab draglink might work on an unlifted truck?

Thanks for all your efforts on this and I'm sorry about your 4-week wait.

Best,

 

Ya its been alot of circles to say the least. Once i have a setup that works i will talk to NWFab and see if they wish to offer it.

I don't really think a stock height will work with crossover, 2'' lift minimum is required in my opinion. It may be possible with stock height and new springs but that is not something i can check. Now that there is some measurements of how much room is needed etc, someone can try the bone stock setup though.

 

bone-stock and worn out bone-stock are two different things also...

I took my alignment keys out on the mill and cleaned them up with a file.

I did not brace my steering box mount. Many miles and no issues so far. Some day I would like to build a brace from the backside of the box mount to the crossmember under the radiator. I think that would spread out the load the best. I don't really want to weld on the frame to box it.

I do NOT thing the double bend drag link will work. It needs a small single bend and a double adjuster on one side to be correct.

The other thing to consider with the pitman arm at very low heights is that you might be able to find an arm that would work with the TRE on the TOP of the pitman arm.

 

I've noticed popping noises while steering at low speed or standing still. I can't tell where it's coming from. I thought maybe steering box flex, but it could be the springs. It only does it when near full lock.

Now that i think of it. I will use the old frame I've got to make a nice brace that bolts on.

 

Check your springs. The added leaves in my springs shift slightly side to side when I am turning lock to lock on pavement...kinda makes a pop/thunk noise.

 

Very true but since i don't have good bone stock springs it is hard to say if it would work.

Once i get the 2'' springs in it will be easier to tell what the clearances would be with good stock springs.

 

I actually ordered 5'' lift for the rear to rid of the 3'' block and asked them to hold on the bushings as i will be installing full greasables all around.

For those interested it was ~$1000USD+shipping for springs and $420CAD for shocks.

Shocks:
http://www.bilsteincanada.com/index....2882_2935_2970

I ordered 4 of the 33-186542 (0-2.5'' lift) as they told me the front and back are the same shock number now.