DNRCustoms

OK, I was wondering if anybody ever bypassd the funky trans cooler right below the turbo. Engine coolant runs through it and helps keep the trans cool. I was thinking of getting rid of that and running a B&M remote trans cooler with the little fan on it. Anybody done this before?? I think it would be enough to keep everything cool. What do you guys think??

paccool

Took mine off to make room for the twins. I have the under bed cooler that was a dealer add on and it works fine with the small cooler up front. My temps actually seem to be cooler now than before and I feel engine heat was being added to the fluid before, especially when towing.

Since then I have removed the factory air cooled unit at the front of the truck and installed a flat cooler in front of the AC condensor. My fluid temps usually stay around 130 or less when empty and about 160 max when towing. I put a manual switch on the underbed fan unit and turn it on when towing just to keeps things cooler. This is pan temp and not line temp, the line temp will be higher than this by 40-50 degrees from what I've been told.

One thing that might be an issue in cold climates is the fluid will stay cooler longer without the water/fluid cooler on the side of the block. This might be an issue in really cold conditions(Which I really try to avoid!) The water would help warm the fluid up.

rainfade

I'd asked the same question a while back and I chose to keep it for the reason paccool mentions.

I'm in Central Ohio and winters can get cold (no not like some places but colder than say socal) and it would make sense this thing serves the purpose of actually heating the ATF on those days.

I may rig a bypass and just not run coolant to it for most of the year but really worried about that first good barely above zero day or worse being hard on the trans.

If you are somewhere more temperate go for it and add an aux cooler IMHO

Caver Dave

Yeap!

Bypassed it when both the air-oil coolers (1 under DS of bed & 1 behind grill on front) wouldn't make a dent in my temps... I deduced that the OEM "exchanger" was fighting to keep the ATF @ 180* and the other coolers were fighting to keep it cooler... the result was ATF temps soared past 220* and took forever to drop, even in neutral, the rear fan screaming, & a healthy downpour thru the rad/front cooler.

Since then, tranny takes 5-10 miles to bump the needle on my gauge above 140*. Temps are EASILY controlled with a manual switch on the rear cooler... stays off until tranny gets to 180* - on when above that.

Can *ONLY* make it go above 180* now when towing (7000# "high drag" load = square Jeep on trailer) by cutting off the rear fan.

While the verdict is still out on summer performance, I'll add another cooler similar to the under-bed on the opposite side if the current setup won't control temps.

99globalwarmer

i would leave my factory cooler. it helps it warm up when its cold and stay cool when it hot. just add a fan to the air cooler helps when in traffic or a secondary cooler before the factory air cooler. there is a point were the atf works best. but the leading cause of cummins overheating is because if that water atf cooler.

powerrammaster

Why do you need to warm up a 727? I have had them on gassers and they never had warmup from the engine. Im sure warmup is a good thing but in this combo everyone pushes the warmup.Why is that.

DNRCustoms

The reason I was wondering was beacuse today when I pulled the trans to put in MY new 47RH I had some issues getting the cooler mount bolts off the Bell housing plate. I was ready to rip that edit off. It was tight. But I got it eventually. But. I'm thinking I'll leave it for now. It is pretty cold up here in Mi during winter. So I can see the added benefit of warming the tranny up. But I am in to making clean set ups, and I don't like all the bs It has with it. So one day I'll take it all of and make a better setup.

Boatnik

That is a good question. The tranny cooler on a gasser is in the radiator and that puts heat back into the fluid after the radiator warms up.