x2 in addition to what I said earlier. You could tell that with your stock gauge it was pegging the 35 instantly, you know it wasn't about to stop anywhere near that PSI... You cam probably get it down under 50 or less with more timing, however. But that makes more cyl pressure. Just think of how high it would be with more load on the engine i.e. a getrag not a TC.

 

Why should it be so high? I was no where near runaway where it is at, when I was turning it up I would check for runaway and then once I was having the problem with the idle which I found was my linkage I turned it down 1 full turn as my setting.

My timing is at the mark.
Shouldn’t my EGT be off the top with such a high pressure?
With my stock turbo I could get 28 PSI at WOT.
Jim

 

Its high cause your pushin enough combustion out of the exhaust to spin the turbo that high. Thats why I ended up porting out my 12cm and opening the wastegate hole up. Now my boost stays under the full pegged area.

Judging by your pictures, I must have been running somewhere around 60 psi before I did anything to my turbo [yak]


Advance your timing an 1/8" on the mark.

My understanding is the bigger compressor wheel flows more air, meaning you can boost it higher and still be in the map efficiency of the turbo.

 

Put some timing in it, that will drop the boost some. Shove it as far to the head as you can get it, that ought to knock it back to the low 40's.

Keep this kind of thing up and we may see a Jim Lane how-to on head gasket replacement.

 

Ok so I turned my fuel down by 1/2 turn and we went out for a 150 mile round trip for a job and it was almost all freeway, The boost will still reach 55 PSI easly.

Push Right foot vv = Excessive Boost ^^ Got it.

Other that a small amount of smoke if I am too heavy on the throttle from a stop, if I am going about 60 MPH and stab the throttle the response is almost instant and I can top 80 MPH within seconds and I am out of room.

There will only be a small puff of smoke for a few seconds until the boost rises and then it clears up to a light haze. Almost enough to not see in the daylight but at night you can see the haze in the headlights.

This is flat terrain and holding a constant speed.
50 MPH = 05 PSI Boost @650*
60 MPH = 10 PSI Boost @800*
65 MPH = 10 PSI Boost @950*

The high boost pressures are completely controllable by the throttle and under normal sane driving conditions I might see 25 PSI during a lane change or entering a freeway onramp.

Looking back at some of my videos, as soon as I installed the turbo upgrade I was able to get 35+ PSI boost pressures even before I turned up the fuel.

One thing I have noticed, before all of the upgrades when I would be driving on the freeway just to be going say 70 MPH I would have to have the throttle about ½ way down to maintain this speed, but now to get to this speed I have my foot barely pressing on the throttle almost just the weight of my foot on the pedal is enough, now all it takes is a light press down and I am climbing in speed even without a lot of boost.

It feels like I probably have twice as much torque as I did before I started messing with the injection pump if this is possible; it is 100% more fun to drive than it was before and it was already a lot of fun.

Also the throttle feels like it wants to float when you back out of it at speed, like I need to add another return spring to the pump lever.

With the truck static and if you run the throttle up to about 2500 RPM and let off it will drop back to idle quickly with no indication of wanting to hang, so I don’t think there is any need for excitement like the pump is too tight.

I you were looking at the pump lever it would only be opened maybe about 3/8 “ with the relation between the how much I am pressing the throttle and how much the pump lever has moved, The lever was not wide open when the engine speed would float down.

Float is probably the wrong word and I probably have you all confused, I think I will try a spring.

Also my cruise control is all confused if it needs to accelerate like when I am going up a hill and my speed drops, it will pull back on the throttle and the boost will come up and it will overshoot the speed before it compensates to hold my set speed.

I just have to watch it doesn’t accelerate into the car in front of me before it realizes it is going too fast.

So I am happy with the way it is running except I still cannot hear the turbo whine.

I guess I designed the perfect turbo silencer, I might try and disconnect my ram air and see if I can hear anything or maybe plumb it into my fresh air intake.

So I still ask, how come I have so much boost when other people who install the exact same H1C CH-02 upgrade get half as much, What makes mine so different, wrong parts?

Is it something I did with the intake or crossover?

Would a wastegated 16CM turbine housing be my next project?

So what do you think I should do.

Thanks
Jim

 

For your CC put a restrictor in the vacuum line, that will make the CC a little more stable as I won't be able to pull the cable as fast.

Have you re-adjusted your transmission TV cable? You might want to try adjusting it to give you more line pressure since you're putting more power through it with less throttle travel....

I think you are on the right track to the reason you are seeing so much manifold pressure. Your non/ic injectors are large enough and with you're pump settings you have enough fuel to overdrive the turbo. So yes a wastegated housing would be good so that you could limit your psi, however I don't know that a 16cm wastegated housing for an h1c/hx35 exists?

Personally I think you would be better off with a s300 variant...

Aaron

 

Being at sea level will give you more boost as well. I gain 6 psi of boost between Denver and Huntington Beach.

Edit: And I have nearly zero smoke at sea level. Around here, in the Denver area, my friends call me the pillar of cloud.

 

I just got done with the GDS 60mm compressor upgrade and a 3" crossover.
my pump has an 1/8" bump and the fuel screw is as far in as can go with the collar still on. I'm only pushing just about 30# at wot, and no more smoke at all.

As far as the turbo whistle it is a much deeper tone. Still loud but much deeper than the h1c or the hx35 high pitch scream.

 

Did you take the collar off the fuel screw?

 

No its still on but its bottomed out against the lock nut.

 

There is your answer....

 

Everything you are saying here about the 'float' and the cruising at 70 with barely any throttle is just what I was trying to explain to you in my first post on this thread. I think you should turn down the fuel to the point where the governor isn't 'overridden'. I know it is fun to drive and you have definitely gained a lot of power but I don't think it is good for your truck. You'll notice that now your oil will be a lot more black a lot faster.

You should still be at half pedal at 70. It is not good to cruise with hardly any pedal. Just think, what state is your TV cable at when you are cruising??? It is completely limp, without any pressure on it, and therefore your line pressure in your 727 is what it would be when it is at idle. This is not good in my opinion.

As to the high boost, I think you have a very strong pump and obviously your engine is in top notch repair/maintenance. I think that also with the higher RPM you are using with full fuel is the reason for your overboost condition. If I stabbed it full fuel in 4th at around 3000 RPM with my full fuel cranked cranked as much as yours I could easily be up to 50 + boost with my stock hx35 and 16 housing. You won't see high egt unloaded. If you try and pull a 30" RV trailer you'd be surprised how little you could keep your foot in it in a grade without melting your pistons.

And a final disclaimer, all my opinions on fueling and mods are based on what conservative and reasonable gains could be had for a DD truck. If you are looking for the max power for drag racing or otherwise, then I guess my opinions don't apply.

 

You don't have enough timing, shove the pump over towards the head a bunch and see what that does for you.

It also sounds like you have a real healthy pump.

I can't recommend either of your wastegated housing options. The 14 cm wastegated housing is a waste of money (and I should know). It's $450 that could be better spent towards a bigger turbo. A 12 cm is really going to be too small because you don't have overdrive.

If you can't get the boost down into the mid 40's with more timing, you are going to have to get a bigger turbo or turn the fuel down. A Super 40 or an HTBG would work well and get you a wastegated housng you can live with.