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Air in injection lines after 30 minutes of sitting

Old Oct 18, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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Air in injection lines after 30 minutes of sitting

I'm trying to figure out why i have to bleed the air out of the injectors every time i wanna start the truck now. The only thing i can think of, is that maybe i need some sort of resistant check valve on the return line coming from the injectors. I first thought maybe the 1/2" fuel lines were draining back into the tank. I cracked the banjo bolt going into the filter and fuel was coming out rhythmically (with pump pulsations).

If someone could shed some light on this i'd greatly appreciate it.

thanks -Nick
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Remove your fuel filter and tighten up the nipple. Sometimes they back off when you change your fuel filter. If that's not it you may want to check your fuel line where it connects to you lift pump. 92 had that plastic line with the locking clip.
EDIT: Which truck?
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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From: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
I'm sorry i should be more specific when i ask for help.

This is on my Ramcharger, with a draw straw and 1/2" pipe all the way to the lift pump. I used 1/4 clear tube return line and have that going into old pick up tube.

I think i have a picture i'll go look.
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Old Oct 18, 2010 | 08:41 PM
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Thanks for the tip on the fuel filter nipple, i'll have to check to see if its snug.

Nope, i haven't taken those off the camera yet. I used spare bung to put bulk head connector to, then from there ran rubber to the solid fuel line back to rubber to the LP. After that its all stock until you get to the return line. That runs back to an adapter which i have going back into the old fuel supply line.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 06:55 AM
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Make sure all of your hose clamps are snug. Also, are you are using a vented filler cap from the donor truck? These are all of the cheap fixes. Next in line is to normally suspect the lift pump. Crud from the tank may have worked its way into the fuel pump which is allowing a break in the capillary holding capability.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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I haven't changed filler necks, because the diesel one was beyond rotted. I just used a hole saw to remove the splash guard. I didn't know there was a difference in gas/diesel caps. I'll be sure to double check my hose clamps and switch caps.

If that doesn't work i'll change port i ran the return line to, use the stock one.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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You are letting air in somewhere on the supply side. Like Trebor said, check to be sure all your connections are leak-free.
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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From: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
I have a 1 way check valve, do u think i should install that on the 1/2" lines?
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JustRamIt91
I have a 1 way check valve, do u think i should install that on the 1/2" lines?
NO, find the problem first before you compound the issues by adding on more variables .
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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X2 there has to be air getting in somewhere. You need to find and fix that problem first. The check valve may only mask the problem for now.
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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From: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
Thankyou
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 05:05 PM
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Ok i just added 3 hose clamps to the 3 push-loc connectors. I also found that one fitting wasn't tight. It wasn't leaking fuel but must have been letting air to enter. I had it running around 530 and moved it to in front of the garage to finish the brake system. I'll wait another hour before i try and start it to see if the problem is still severe.

thanks for the help.
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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Ok i was just out there 5 minutes ago... no start... I'll check the filter thread tomorrow. Any other ideas? Could it be draining back through the return line??
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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did you use push lock hose or just some 1/2 fuel line??
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Old Oct 22, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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From: Claymont, Del and Horsham, PA
push lock hose.

I'm going to pull the fuel filter tomorrow and check the nipple for tightness. If that doesn't work, i'll drop the tank.

Looking more at the inside of the fuel pickup, it looks like there is a resistant device on the stock return port. I'm going to re-hook to that 1/4" port.
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