Ok so if you were going to have to change the caster/camber on the front the choices I have found are the MOOG K992 that goes in the lower bearing or the SPC 88940 that goes in the top, what one do you think would work better as far as strength and reliability?

 

I just bought the SPC 88940 2 days ago trying to get my caster increased. We will see how it is when it gets here.


Which are you looking to adjust? If just the camber, they make shims to bolt on behind the spindle.


I could never decide if the Moog K992 adjusts camber only, or if you can adjust the caster as well.

 

Not sure which one it goes into the shop tomorrow. I have a reman box, borgeson shaft and have rebuilt both upper and lower king pins both sides but it still does not track like it should so I'm hoping its the caster.


I believe I've read on one of the threads that you want to increase it a little more than stock but I can't find the thread

 

The SPC 88940 help up fine on my 91.5 for nearly 100K. Don't know what its life would have been because the truck was totaled.

 

When you did the front end, did you replace the king pins themselves or just the bushings? I ask because mine were shot and my wheel wouldn't return to center and I had death wobble.. Another thing that can affect the caster is a broken mounting plate or loose bolts on the same. If you haven't already, watch the steering box through the fender well while someone turns the wheel stop to stop to see if the box moves. If you have already done all this, nevermind ...Mark

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4-t290373.html

 

I bought the king pins but the ones that were in it looked good, it's funny no matter what I've done to this thing it does not drive as good as either of my other trucks and they have really worn out steering components on them

 

Those pins may have looked good... On the dana 60, the kingpin inclination, which determines caster, is built into the axle/pin configuration and the angle that the axle is set to. I know that there are methods for adjusting caster and camber, but that axle was designed to not need adjustment...Mark

 

Mark, I totally agree with you, and I do have another axel in my shed from a 93 that has pretty low miles on it, if this axel shows it is out of spec I suppose the cheapest and best route would be to swap the axels out.

 

Sacked springs can cause caster problems.

 

I have the stock lift, Custom Suspension parabolic front springs on this, along with the pro comp 3000 hydraulic shocks all the way around. The time and money I've put into the front of this truck, well it should drive like a new truck, and for the most part it does.
But when going down the road you have to be on your toes constantly cuz out of the blue it will just quit tracking like it should, heading one way or the other, nothing violent just not normal behavior and it's driving me nuts lol. BTW its the 92 in my sig and my avatar, and my DD and it drove just like this with the stock tires on it.

 

I put 5" shackles on my parabolics to get some suspension movement, and add caster. Single/basic stabilizer. It tracks like its on rails... even with a completely shot steering box as I found out.

 

Well the results from the alignment shop really didn't help clarify the situation, every thing I've read says you should have these settings.


left wheel right wheel


caster---------3.2-------------------------------3.5


cross caster-----------------.03


camber--------0.10---------------------------0.10


cross camber----------------0.0


my truck


caster--------------3.1----------------------2.9


cross caster------------------.02


camber------------0.3---------------------0.1


cross camber----------------------0.3
toe is almost zero.


I'm wondering if with the values as close to ideal as they are, if maybe the reman steering box is the culprit because this thing does not wear the tires at all, although I do rotate them every oil change (5000mi) and have about 20,000 on them now

 

That very well could be.

 

Yup I think next weekend I will pull the steering box and change it out, if that doesn't fix it the only thing left is to change the front axel. I have one that I got from a friend for cheap for a parts axel, but it's really too nice to part out.

 

Double the caster, or add say 5 degrees and report back. Factory spec is usually not enough on solid axle trucks. Caster will keep your truck going straight even with slack in the steering box.

EDIT: use degree shims under your leaf springs, or longer shackles to increase caster.