Adjusting Caster Camber?
06-11-2018, 08:33 AM
#31
Registered User
06-14-2018, 07:35 AM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just an update, the parts should be here by tomorrow and hope to get them installed on Saturday, also going to install one of the THD piston lift pumps
06-14-2018, 11:20 AM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'm also going to take Mr Lanes advice and install studs in place of the bolts to make installing the pump easier, and if I remember correctly someone said to use a heat gun on the insulation and it will cut like butter!
06-15-2018, 06:22 AM
#34
Registered User
Thread Starter
So after reading a reply from jtamulonis in the "what did you do to your gen 1 today"
He said,
"I`ll bet that if you hold the cones by the threaded end and turn it slowly at eye level, there will be an uneven wear pattern on the taper of the cone. they always come out smooth, but the un -even wear on the cone is what contributes to the death-wobble. look at the not tapered part of the cone that contacts the axle flange. that shoulder will not be the same thickness all the way around, like a new one will be. every axle I`ve rebuilt (over 20)with any where near 100,000 miles has warn out cones. but you may have the exception to my observation."
I have decided to investigate a little further before I install the moog k992 parts that should be here today, if the cones are indeed worn uneven those will be replaced (that would explain why my caster is not the same from side to side) then test driven and if that cures the problem I will not install the moog parts.
He said,
"I`ll bet that if you hold the cones by the threaded end and turn it slowly at eye level, there will be an uneven wear pattern on the taper of the cone. they always come out smooth, but the un -even wear on the cone is what contributes to the death-wobble. look at the not tapered part of the cone that contacts the axle flange. that shoulder will not be the same thickness all the way around, like a new one will be. every axle I`ve rebuilt (over 20)with any where near 100,000 miles has warn out cones. but you may have the exception to my observation."
I have decided to investigate a little further before I install the moog k992 parts that should be here today, if the cones are indeed worn uneven those will be replaced (that would explain why my caster is not the same from side to side) then test driven and if that cures the problem I will not install the moog parts.
06-15-2018, 07:03 AM
#35
Registered User
So after reading a reply from jtamulonis in the "what did you do to your gen 1 today"
He said,
"I`ll bet that if you hold the cones by the threaded end and turn it slowly at eye level, there will be an uneven wear pattern on the taper of the cone. they always come out smooth, but the un -even wear on the cone is what contributes to the death-wobble. look at the not tapered part of the cone that contacts the axle flange. that shoulder will not be the same thickness all the way around, like a new one will be. every axle I`ve rebuilt (over 20)with any where near 100,000 miles has warn out cones. but you may have the exception to my observation."
I have decided to investigate a little further before I install the moog k992 parts that should be here today, if the cones are indeed worn uneven those will be replaced (that would explain why my caster is not the same from side to side) then test driven and if that cures the problem I will not install the moog parts.
He said,
"I`ll bet that if you hold the cones by the threaded end and turn it slowly at eye level, there will be an uneven wear pattern on the taper of the cone. they always come out smooth, but the un -even wear on the cone is what contributes to the death-wobble. look at the not tapered part of the cone that contacts the axle flange. that shoulder will not be the same thickness all the way around, like a new one will be. every axle I`ve rebuilt (over 20)with any where near 100,000 miles has warn out cones. but you may have the exception to my observation."
I have decided to investigate a little further before I install the moog k992 parts that should be here today, if the cones are indeed worn uneven those will be replaced (that would explain why my caster is not the same from side to side) then test driven and if that cures the problem I will not install the moog parts.
06-15-2018, 07:16 AM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yes sir, that's exactly what I'm going to do, but I will not send the other parts back till I put a few miles on it and am satisfied the problem is cured, I'm also going to put new plastic cups in as even though they are only about a year old they are probably worn to the old pins pattern.
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mknittle (06-15-2018)
06-15-2018, 07:55 AM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Quick ?, do you think I could just pull the top cap and remove the kingpin and then install the new one without completely dissembling the entire knuckle
06-15-2018, 08:39 AM
#38
Administrator
I don't think so, it is tapered. It is possible to do the lower because I did it. IMHO, you should also replace the lowers...Mark
06-15-2018, 08:45 AM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Mark, I did do the races and bearings in the lower when I did the front-end about a year ago.. do you think I need to replace them again?
06-15-2018, 08:55 AM
#40
Administrator
Sorry, I missed that you changed the lowers. I would think that they are still good, but you may want to mic them out just to be sure...Mark
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nonrev (06-15-2018)
06-15-2018, 03:03 PM
#41
Registered User
IMO, the spring fatigues, and nylon cup wears/deforms/breaks, before the steel kingpin cone is harmed. You could get some accelerated wear from sand/grit contamination, but everybody greases regularly, right?
Big tires (leverage) and bumpy roads (impact) are jostling that spring loaded joint to some degree anytime the truck moves or steers. Thats a big reason why there's springless setups with bronze cups now.
Here's the cones I'll be using again... (with new nylon cups and springs)
Big tires (leverage) and bumpy roads (impact) are jostling that spring loaded joint to some degree anytime the truck moves or steers. Thats a big reason why there's springless setups with bronze cups now.
Here's the cones I'll be using again... (with new nylon cups and springs)
06-15-2018, 04:41 PM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
IMO, the spring fatigues, and nylon cup wears/deforms/breaks, before the steel kingpin cone is harmed. You could get some accelerated wear from sand/grit contamination, but everybody greases regularly, right?
Big tires (leverage) and bumpy roads (impact) are jostling that spring loaded joint to some degree anytime the truck moves or steers. Thats a big reason why there's springless setups with bronze cups now.
Here's the cones I'll be using again... (with new nylon cups and springs)
Big tires (leverage) and bumpy roads (impact) are jostling that spring loaded joint to some degree anytime the truck moves or steers. Thats a big reason why there's springless setups with bronze cups now.
Here's the cones I'll be using again... (with new nylon cups and springs)
06-16-2018, 08:37 AM
#43
Registered User
Update:
So far I have went from a mostly slopped out front axle and rebuilt it into a better than new front axle. Even with all the time and money I have put into it, I really haven't improved the way it drove - until yesterday.
My 4* pinion wedges showed up on the Brown truck so I ran the '93 in the shop and got them put in in a 1/2 hour or so. Took it for a spin and the difference is night and day. It drives SO MUCH better - It wasn't terrible before, but now it actually drives itself down the road like it should (i.e. self steer).
I do have a touch of play coming from my less than 5,000 mile RedHead steering gear that will have to be addressed, but the increased caster did the job.
So far I have went from a mostly slopped out front axle and rebuilt it into a better than new front axle. Even with all the time and money I have put into it, I really haven't improved the way it drove - until yesterday.
My 4* pinion wedges showed up on the Brown truck so I ran the '93 in the shop and got them put in in a 1/2 hour or so. Took it for a spin and the difference is night and day. It drives SO MUCH better - It wasn't terrible before, but now it actually drives itself down the road like it should (i.e. self steer).
I do have a touch of play coming from my less than 5,000 mile RedHead steering gear that will have to be addressed, but the increased caster did the job.
06-16-2018, 09:24 AM
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update:
So far I have went from a mostly slopped out front axle and rebuilt it into a better than new front axle. Even with all the time and money I have put into it, I really haven't improved the way it drove - until yesterday.
My 4* pinion wedges showed up on the Brown truck so I ran the '93 in the shop and got them put in in a 1/2 hour or so. Took it for a spin and the difference is night and day. It drives SO MUCH better - It wasn't terrible before, but now it actually drives itself down the road like it should (i.e. self steer).
I do have a touch of play coming from my less than 5,000 mile RedHead steering gear that will have to be addressed, but the increased caster did the job.
So far I have went from a mostly slopped out front axle and rebuilt it into a better than new front axle. Even with all the time and money I have put into it, I really haven't improved the way it drove - until yesterday.
My 4* pinion wedges showed up on the Brown truck so I ran the '93 in the shop and got them put in in a 1/2 hour or so. Took it for a spin and the difference is night and day. It drives SO MUCH better - It wasn't terrible before, but now it actually drives itself down the road like it should (i.e. self steer).
I do have a touch of play coming from my less than 5,000 mile RedHead steering gear that will have to be addressed, but the increased caster did the job.
06-16-2018, 03:16 PM
#45
Registered User
in your pic it looks like you have the ends of the axels off the tubes is that right? As long as you have an axel apart my question is will the king pin fit through the knuckle from the bottom up through the top, in other words can I just take the upper cover off an break the king pin loose and pull it out the top
My 4* pinion wedges showed up on the Brown truck so I ran the '93 in the shop and got them put in in a 1/2 hour or so. Took it for a spin and the difference is night and day. It drives SO MUCH better - It wasn't terrible before, but now it actually drives itself down the road like it should (i.e. self steer).
