A518 VS. 47RH...........which should I do?
#1
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A518 VS. 47RH...........which should I do?
I am trying to decide what is the best path for me when it comes to my transmission. It is currently equipped with an A518. I plan to stick with an automatic. I only use my truck to pull every so often, most of the time it is driven empty. When I do pull, it is my 23ft 5th wheel travel trailer. The transmission in it now is the stock A518 with 207K miles and counting. I recently put a Hughes converter in and a Transgo shift kit. Not long after, the transmission lost overdrive and I was experiencing high transmission temps while pulling. The truck drives decent empty, but once I hook up to a trailer, it falls on its face! I suspect the stock clutch discs are worn out and a rebuild is in order. So...............
Do I build a stout A518 with a Goerend/DTT converter and all the smaller goodies.............. or install a 47RH?
I know the A518 is cheaper to upgrade and build, plus there is no conversion work like the 47RH requires.
All I ask is to comfortably pull my 23ft travel travel @ 60 mph without any problems. My transmission can not handle this as it is right now. That is why I suspect a rebuild is in order. I would appreciate any insight as to what I should do. I do not race or sled pull...........just weekend warrior towing (travel trailer & boat).
Do I build a stout A518 with a Goerend/DTT converter and all the smaller goodies.............. or install a 47RH?
I know the A518 is cheaper to upgrade and build, plus there is no conversion work like the 47RH requires.
All I ask is to comfortably pull my 23ft travel travel @ 60 mph without any problems. My transmission can not handle this as it is right now. That is why I suspect a rebuild is in order. I would appreciate any insight as to what I should do. I do not race or sled pull...........just weekend warrior towing (travel trailer & boat).
#2
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build the 518 if that is all you ever plan on doing with it. A built 518 will pull your 5th wheel no problem and will be cheaper than a 47rh swap. This is coming from a person that has done the 47rh swap and love it. But i hot rod my truck around a little and am putting out more power.
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I'd personally go with the 47RH, even if all you'll ever do is putter around.
You'll love the feeling when the converter locks, and there are many more aftermarket upgrades for the 47RH.
You'll love the feeling when the converter locks, and there are many more aftermarket upgrades for the 47RH.
#4
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Really? Almost all the parts that work for a 47rh will work for a 518. They are basically the same transmission.
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I'd go 518.
Theres no need for a 47Rh CONVERSION if you're only pulling that. Almost everything made for a 47rh is out there for a A518.
PATC transmissions sells ALOT of stuff for the Diesel 518 trannies and they're very knowledgable to talk to on the phone.
With what you're doing, a converter, and some hard parts in the tranny would be enough, and a valve body of course, I don't see why you'd need a billet input and all that crap.
Unless you plan like 350HP + later on, I'd just go with the 518 build, AND you already have the A518, you wouldn't have to get a 47rh
Theres no need for a 47Rh CONVERSION if you're only pulling that. Almost everything made for a 47rh is out there for a A518.
PATC transmissions sells ALOT of stuff for the Diesel 518 trannies and they're very knowledgable to talk to on the phone.
With what you're doing, a converter, and some hard parts in the tranny would be enough, and a valve body of course, I don't see why you'd need a billet input and all that crap.
Unless you plan like 350HP + later on, I'd just go with the 518 build, AND you already have the A518, you wouldn't have to get a 47rh
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#8
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Well, sice you already have the Hughes converter and shift kit I would invest a little more money in your current trans.. Kinda makes more since being money doesn't grow on trees for us first gen lovers.. I would look into the o.d problem, could be the selinoid above the valve body, I chased a no O.d problem for a yr and that fixed it..
But if you want the best of the best and want to put all the pwr to the ground, go with the 47rh.. But you would probably have at least 2k to do it somewhat right.. I've done the swap in my truck and love it, but for your situation, I would fix up the 518..
But if you want the best of the best and want to put all the pwr to the ground, go with the 47rh.. But you would probably have at least 2k to do it somewhat right.. I've done the swap in my truck and love it, but for your situation, I would fix up the 518..
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Also forgot to mention that the 47RH is not that great in stock form. The stock conv. will slip just as bad just like a 518 converter, except only when its locked in. The tranny itself will hold about the same power, basicly the same trans besides the front drum and the lockup stuff, from what i understand.
#10
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Thanks guys! I am actually wondering how many folks on here are running "built' A518 and do some heavy pulling of trailers. Tried and true stories are what I am looking for. Don't get me wrong, the Hughes Converter and Transgo shift kit seemed to help out.........but it didn't really change things when I towed for the 1st time. I ended up seeing lots of heat, hearing the engine get louder, decreasing road speed, and some confused looks by passing vehicles. I have done a little bit of reading and it seems that some folks agree that a higher priced/higher quality converter will yield results very similiar to full lockup (given the clutch packs are still in good shape). The biggest thing is that my transmission has never been rebuilt before. I am almost certain that the clutch packs are worn too far for towing usage.
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Got sumpt'in on a truck coming to me this week.
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You mean how do you slip a lockup converter? slipping a non lockup converter is easy, all you do is put it in gear, its always slipping
Slip is the same as stall speed... pretty much.
The factory converter will "stall" too high, or slip. Out of the engine's torque range. Hence the reason a lowstall aftermarket converter is needed in even a 300Hp p pump truck.
Slip is the same as stall speed... pretty much.
The factory converter will "stall" too high, or slip. Out of the engine's torque range. Hence the reason a lowstall aftermarket converter is needed in even a 300Hp p pump truck.