well this is frustrating when you have no ac or can'y wind down the window on a hot day of 105 degrees!!!!

**** not the best of times to try and figure out the electrical issues

I have no way to roll down the windows or turn on ac and heater, I chk'd for power at the power window switch and no luck there, chk the power at the fuses and no luck there, chk for power at ign module and no luck there either, no vlown fuses and no power to both accessories that are not working right now, I know they are interrelated as a brown wire and big green wire is shared with the heater/ac and power windows fuses so at least it will fix both when I figure out what the hell it is, my hunch tells me its an ignition module but not going to buy one yet since they are probably expensive to replace and want to double chk again before shelling out big money-have yet to chk fusible links but I'll chk those right now

 

I would start with the fusable links first

 

Your situation reads exactly like what I just got done fixing on the wife's truck.

She lost both the A/C and windows.

What I found was a two-fold problem.

First, the windows breaker and A/C fuse are side-by-side in the fuse-block, both getting key-ON power from the same feed from the key-switch.

Both the breaker and the fuse connections at the fuse-block were all melted and burnt.

Second, the main feed wire that powers these two functions from the key-switch was deader than a door-nail, meaning that portion of the key-switch was dead.

I cut their wires loose from the fuse-block and spliced new lengths of heavy wire onto them, routing these new wires to battery-HOT; in my case, a HOT junction/stud that is fed via a cable to the battery, but going straight to the battery accomplishes the same effect.


I added inline fuse-holders to these new wires, with a breaker in the window wire and a fuse in the A/C wire, just like were originally installed in the factory fuse-block.


Now, the windows can be operated regardless of key position.

The A/C blower also works regardless of key position.


This is a vast improvement over the shoddy set-up that Dodge provided.

 

Oh, and by the way, the fuse-links in that truck were done away with quite some time ago, being replaced with good circuit-breakers and fuses.

That fix cured a whole host of intermittent electrical situations that that truck had been having, including a very intermittent NO-START situation that had been occuring from day-ONE of us owning the truck.

 

...are there any pics of these fusible link and breaker locations, and hot wire for windows. i just bought a 93 d250 and power windows are both dead, plus it wont start without a push button switch going strait to starter, i dont know if these problems are related. help gardentommy@juno.com

 

Fusible links are on the driver side inner fender well, there is a "duckfoot" with one wire feeding into 5 or 6 wires, those are the fusible links.
Also on my 93, if memory serves, there is a black/pink tracer and an orange wire under the steering column trim that could be causing issues. Check the wires and connectors in that circuit, I had a connector under the column that was melted.

The breaker should be in the fuse panel for the window circuit. Looks like a rectangle metal can versus a plastic fuse

 

Do you have to remove steering column to access wiring?........QUOTE=MARF75;3271857]Fusible links are on the driver side inner fender well, there is a "duckfoot" with one wire feeding into 5 or 6 wires, those are the fusible links.
Also on my 93, if memory serves, there is a black/pink tracer and an orange wire under the steering column trim that could be causing issues. Check the wires and connectors in that circuit, I had a connector under the column that was melted.

The breaker should be in the fuse panel for the window circuit. Looks like a rectangle metal can versus a plastic fuse[/QUOTE]