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91 dodge ve oump swap

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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:08 AM
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From: gulfcoast
91 dodge ve pump swap

i have a 1991 dodge d350 ,the injector pump started leaking . i bought one from auto parts store, engine pin locked in on tdc. the pump was not locked in on #1 i turned the pump so it would line up but it wont start. can the pump be 360 degree out of time?
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:37 AM
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From: Wilton, IA
There are several things to check here. As long as everything is hooked up correctly, it can't be 360/180 out. Is the key fully inserted between the pump shaft and the gear? Take a small mirror, and a light, pull the oil fill and look. It is very easy for the key to fall out if it is not held in the pump shaft tightly on install. Also, make sure the pump is full of fuel, I will loosen the return line banjo bolt when priming the fuel system so that the pump is full. Check to see if the FSS is functioning properly, should hear an click when 12 volts is applied to it. Lots of little things that can lead to frustration when figuring out a no-start condition.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:43 AM
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From: gulfcoast
yeah i hear the click and have gr8 fuel pressure at the injectors. when i bled them fuel shot out of every one. key is all the way in also , i checked that first thing
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 11:56 AM
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Just because you have fuel at the injectors doesn't mean you got all of the air out. With the lines loose there is nothing for the air to compress against. Therefore you will have fuel at the injectors. Once you tighten those lines, any air will compress and not be able to overcome the injector pop pressure.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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From: gulfcoast
ok cougar, started messing with it and there is still air in the injectors. is there a certain way to bleed them or do i just spin it over and crack the lines loose then tighten them back?
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 11:19 PM
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Usually once I have good fuel spray at the injectors I just tighten down the nuts and start cranking. Don't crank for more then 30 second...then allow starter to cool for a few minutes.

Feather the throttle as your cranking. Once it starts to catch keep your foot into the throttle......it will probably stumble and want to die. That is the air getting worked out. Might run rough for a couple minutes.

As for timing I have to disagree. If the keyways are lined up it should be fine. I have done a few IP's and have never set them up, timing wise. Just line up the keyway and go.
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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There is the possibility the timing gear jumped a tooth during R&R. Rare, but has happened. If so, the easiest way to check it is to measure TDC on the #1 cylinder. Once you are certain #1 is TDC, the key on the injection pump should be about the 5:30 position and the TDC pin should engage in the hole. You have to have both conditions, piston on TDC and timing gear key at the 5:30 position to be correct.
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 11:33 PM
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From: gulfcoast
thrashingcows: thanks for the info, real helpfull.... cougar: yeah rechecked the timing , timing pin slid in place and the pump gear keyway is at 5:30 so all that is right... bled the injectors some and it acts like its trying to start but then starts acting like its airbound... im gonna try bleeding the system again tom, starting at filter and so on.. thanks for all the help....
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 10:06 AM
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But was the piston at top dead center? The timing pin keys off the IP gear and not the crank. So if it has jumped, the pin will go in the gear but the crank will be off.
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 11:28 AM
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From: gulfcoast
the timing pin that goes in the cam gear went in and the keyway and slot were at the 5:30 mark... the reason i had to change the pump is because the old one started leaking everwhere and i lost fuel millage ..
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