1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

518 vs 47rh

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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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monstr250's Avatar
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From: Brookfield IL
518 vs 47rh

Ok been a while since I've posted on this side. I need to know the advantages to a 47rh over a 518 and would it be worth it in the end? i know ya'll are the most knowledgeable on the 518. I've got the opportunity to buy a 47rh now. Quick responses would be most appreciated!
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 11:20 PM
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Rick 12v CTD's Avatar
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From: Thunder Bay
you'll get varied responses as to whether it's worth it or not. I ran my 91 with the 518 and I run the ford with it's transmission (4r100, 4speed auto with lockup) and I would rather have lockup any day of the week.

When I do finally build my 91 up it'll have a goerend 47rh and the motor in the 91 is goin in the 03 ford and the 180ppump is going in the 91 dodge with 47rh.
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Old Aug 25, 2011 | 11:40 PM
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47RH is the way to go IMHO . I just took apart a '99 47RE and it had a 5 pinion rear planetary gearset in it and a 4 pinion front planetary gearset, which means strength. The "E" means electronic, while the "H" means hydraulic. Chances are the parts are the same between the two slushboxes.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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Worth about 50hp and you can run a bit bigger turbo....
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:20 AM
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Ok that is some good advice. The asking price is 400. the guy said he would give me a ride before he pulls it. For running condition is that a good price?
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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I was going to do the 47rh on my 92, but the information I've read and talking to other people changed my mind. The main thing is the lockup part of the torque converter is not very strong. Fine while your just cruising, but that's all. I was told by some transmission people that you don't want it on for even compression braking. The consensus was a built up 518 with a top of the line converter was a better choice.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cougar
I was going to do the 47rh on my 92, but the information I've read and talking to other people changed my mind. The main thing is the lockup part of the torque converter is not very strong. Fine while your just cruising, but that's all. I was told by some transmission people that you don't want it on for even compression braking. The consensus was a built up 518 with a top of the line converter was a better choice.
I think he's right, better bang for your buck out of a a518 and there pretty durable. It'll cost a little more on fuel. Buying a used 47rh with supporting hardware and then having it rebuilt can get pricey. $400 for a swap is a good price around here. If your not going to rebuild it u need to do a 20-30 minute test drive. Make sure it locks up and stays locked up when its supposed to. Good luck
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cougar
I was going to do the 47rh on my 92, but the information I've read and talking to other people changed my mind. The main thing is the lockup part of the torque converter is not very strong. Fine while your just cruising, but that's all. I was told by some transmission people that you don't want it on for even compression braking. The consensus was a built up 518 with a top of the line converter was a better choice.
Hmm interesting, Goerend told me mine would support 500 hp shifting locked up. Never heard of the "lock up part" of the converter being a week spot in a 47rh. If anything the lock up puts more strain on the input and intermediate shaft but thats to be expected. And for that they make billet shafts.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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From: Streator Illinois
Originally Posted by cougar
The main thing is the lockup part of the torque converter is not very strong. Fine while your just cruising, but that's all. I was told by some transmission people that you don't want it on for even compression braking.
Better not tell that to the guys flipping lockup on the strip..............
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 06:43 PM
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I think their talking about the stock/OEM non-molested (including pressures) lock-up converter.

It's a Cummins, and folks hop them up and beat on them. An after-market multi-disc converter with increased hydraulic pressures is common if you're into bombing the engine and increasing the torque output.

I've been told the lock-up could be good for .2 seconds and more at the strip. It's like another gear. But many set the switch so that it locks getting into 2nd gear. It's locked from there till you get off the fuel and disengage it. I'm led to believe a billet/alloy input shaft($) is a must right-off.
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