I also put new Hastings air filter in.

 

That is CAT yellow it won't work on a Cummins.

 

I really like your overkill air cleaner wing nuts....those are sweet!! But that darn yellow keeps popping up everywhere....

 

Actually its "Valspar Equipment Yellow" so it'll work just fine on the Cummins . It was either that or Ford blue.

 

I still have about 20 cans of it so it's a safe bet you'll see it again...

 

I look forward to playing..."Find the yellow parts".

 

Makes it easier to figure out what I've already done

 

 

This is for Cows, Mark and Ollie!! Exactly 20 spray cans of Equipment Yellow, 2 cans of Kubota Orange, 4 quarts of Equipment Yellow and a gallon of Red Oxide Primer!

 

I replaced the chintzy, thin walled, weak excuse for a rear trans mount that came with the AA NV4500 conversion kit with actual 3x3x.25 inch steel tube. I should've done it when I installed the trans but I had misplaced the piece of square tube. I should have milled the slots in the mounting plate on the cross member about a quarter inch longer but it's in and it's solid. The mounting plate is a bit crooked now. Here's a comparison of the old mount and the new one.

 

And a partridge in a pear tree. It must be good because I can't find anybody that still sells it here any more!

 

That looks better.

 

Been a while since I wrenched on the truck. I got the trans tunnel cover done and painted (yes...its yellow). I had to rework the sticks on the twin stick. I basically had to straighten them so they stick straight up. I had to do this so that the boot for the twin stick and the boot for the shifter wouldn't be on top of each other. I sent the sticks out to get powder coated.
I'm trying to figure out how to seal the tunnel cover to the tunnel so that it's reasonably water resistant yet will come off fairly easily. I thought about using foam rubber weather stripping (like for doors and windows) but was afraid it will hold moisture and create rust. Right now I'm thinking of using blue RTV. I welcome any thoughts or suggestions.

 

I would use either duct seal (the black putty used to seal around electrical conduit), or a small bead of sika flex (urethane construction adhesive caulk).

All surfaces painted well before sealant application.

Most RTV is to stiff to seal sheet metal well -- as the metal flexes, or even just changes temp, the RTV will peel instead of flexing. It also releases a mild acid when it cures, which can initiate corrosion if there is a flaw in the paint . . . I used to use RTV as seam sealer all the time, but it didn't really work out well in the long run.

 

years ago there used to be a rope calk product that was used to seal between fenders and body panels. Eastwood may have it. it was called body putty but a search for that comes up with bondo type products.