17 psi boost max
17 psi boost max
I just installed a 16cm housing,as well as a boost guage,the max boost I can get pulling a hill with a load wot is 17,I have a afe filter but stock exhaust,should this not be much higher?thanx
With pump tweeks and a 16 housing, to me it does seem low. First off, check all of your air to air clamps, boots, as well as the AFC signal line running from the intake to the VE pump for air leaks. Also check your boost gauge connection for leaks at the intake, any kinks in the boost gauge line or a loose fitting at the boost gauge that could be giving you a bad reading. This wil give you a starting point. Im sure the rest will chime in with somemore ideas.
Do you know what kind of condition your injectors are in and are they stock? With stock injectors and a 16cm housing, I was at 15psig before any real pump tweaks. I didn't hit 22psig until I went to PW injectors. Now with a PDR HS35, some serious porting and polishing, and pump mods, I'm at 35psig.
Carl
Carl
When I had the injector pump rebuilt, I had the shop check and clean my stock injectors,they said they where in great shape,I told him to tweek the pump slightly,so he set it to 96cc rather than the stock 86cc.
As you may know,I just bought this truck,and did all the modes to-date at one time,wich means I dont have any bench marks,but I need the truck to pull equipment around and didnt want to do it without guages,and while I had the turbo off to drill the manifold for the pyro,I thought I'd just throw a 16cm housing on,then when I picked up the housing I saw a afe filter..........help,I've got the bug!!
just for interest sake,the pyro reads 950* driving down the road with an empty (but heavy) 30' goose neck trailer.
The trans temp hasnt hit 180* yet.
the tach is on order from piers.
As you may know,I just bought this truck,and did all the modes to-date at one time,wich means I dont have any bench marks,but I need the truck to pull equipment around and didnt want to do it without guages,and while I had the turbo off to drill the manifold for the pyro,I thought I'd just throw a 16cm housing on,then when I picked up the housing I saw a afe filter..........help,I've got the bug!!
just for interest sake,the pyro reads 950* driving down the road with an empty (but heavy) 30' goose neck trailer.
The trans temp hasnt hit 180* yet.
the tach is on order from piers.
If your tranny gauge isn't hitting 180, that means your sensor is in the pan. That is kind of a false reading as your fluid has already passed through the cooler. It is a personal decision but I like to know what the hottest my fluid is so I have my sensor in the line right out of the tranny (before any coolers). Your actual fluid temps are most likely much higher. I run ~180 driving down the highway with no load. 180 it the "normal" operating temperature of our transmission.
Carl
Carl
I installed it in the outcoming line from the tranny,it hasnt gotten past 180,but I havnt pushed it yet,also it was a cooler wet day yesterday when I tried it for the first time,I'm sure it will get well into the 250 range with a load on a hot day.are most of you guys running synthetic in your auto trannys?
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Yep, that's the kind of temps you'd expect from the mild tweaked truck/trans.
Under heavy throttle and with a full load, you will see higher temps... especially when the weather warms up.
Your fueling level is prett mild in comparison to a majority of the "middle of the road" mods run by many of the guys.
You have a fair bit more HP available to you if you want it... your only issue is to make it usable.
If nothing else, just make sure you try to stay at or below 1200-1250*F EGT (watch your water temps if you run at the max for sustained periods) and also do some "shift management" with the auto. If your temps rise to/over 225-230*F you NEED to drop down and pick up a lower gear. This will give you some extra RPM/oil flow/reduced loading which will help contain trans temps.
pastor bob....
Under heavy throttle and with a full load, you will see higher temps... especially when the weather warms up.
Your fueling level is prett mild in comparison to a majority of the "middle of the road" mods run by many of the guys.
You have a fair bit more HP available to you if you want it... your only issue is to make it usable.
If nothing else, just make sure you try to stay at or below 1200-1250*F EGT (watch your water temps if you run at the max for sustained periods) and also do some "shift management" with the auto. If your temps rise to/over 225-230*F you NEED to drop down and pick up a lower gear. This will give you some extra RPM/oil flow/reduced loading which will help contain trans temps.
pastor bob....
Alright,I'm listening (in reguards to more HP available) whats my next step?I havnt touched the stock exhaust,is there some HP and MPG in there?
I'd like about 250HP,but I want to keep my 25mpg if at all possible.thanx
I'd like about 250HP,but I want to keep my 25mpg if at all possible.thanx
My 4WD truck has only a 16 housing and pump turned up. I live at 4600 elevation and get 22 PSI boost.
I was wondering if you have turned your ecentric cone under the diaphram. If not you can read how in the tech articles. Its very easy.
On my 2 WD truck I have done much more.
The only thing I did to gain power which caused me to lose fuel milage was the POD nozzles. they gave lots of power but I lost 3 MPGs.
The old smokey power pin replaces the ecentric cone. It will give between 24 and 28 HP. There was a noticable difference, power wise, when I installed mine. I did not see a fuel milage loss.
Happy bombing
I was wondering if you have turned your ecentric cone under the diaphram. If not you can read how in the tech articles. Its very easy.
On my 2 WD truck I have done much more.
The only thing I did to gain power which caused me to lose fuel milage was the POD nozzles. they gave lots of power but I lost 3 MPGs.
The old smokey power pin replaces the ecentric cone. It will give between 24 and 28 HP. There was a noticable difference, power wise, when I installed mine. I did not see a fuel milage loss.
Happy bombing
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