Teddy Bear

Me and cumminsdriver have been workin on gettin my tranny parts (goerend triple tc and valve body) in my truck for the last couple days. Well today we finally got it all bolted in and ready to go. Put fluid in it, and all was well, or so i thought Went over to the drivers side to get in the truck and noticed a decent fluid leak coming from the transmission. Well we figured no big deal, might be a line or something. Well it was a line that was a little loose so we tighten it up a little more and start it again to see if it fixed the leak. Well this time it was no small leak, kinda heard a little pop and then fluid started spewing out around the line fitting. So we shut the truck off and looked at it again. Turns out the tranny case is cracked in a couple places around where the fitting hooks up WTH!!?? Dont seem like it should have broken that easy to me, didnt really even tighten it that much.So what do i do??? These tranny cases are aluminum right? Could maybe try TIG welding it i guess, or would that just be wasting my time?? Or am I just outta luck? Maybe a good reason to just call Dave and have him send me a full built tranny But would my transmission even be good for a core now??? Please tell me what ya think! THIS SUCKS!!!!!!!!

Murf

Sorry to hear about your problems TeddyBear. It sounds like your luck is about as good as mine!

As far as TIG welding it, it could be done but the weld area needs to be EXTREMELY clean, especially aluminum. So that probably means pulling the trans. As for the core, I would imagine that once they receive it they would notice it and not refund your core charge.

IF your pride will allow it I've seen JB Weld do some amazing things in the past. I know it is the butt of MANY jokes, but for occasions just such as this one it could be your saving grace. I know I've never been above using it.

My .02

Good luck

Teddy Bear

Appreciate the input murf. We tried an equivalent to JB weld, called quicksteel i believe. Anyways, we let is set up for about 10 minutes the first time. Blew it right off when we started it. Second time we did a lil better job and let it set up for about 45minutes. Held for just a second but then it just let loose. IIRC dave told us that at idle his VB puts out around 80lbs of pressure and at WOT it makes 200lbs. I could be way off but thats what im thinkin. Either way it holds a lot of pressure and i cant really see how JB weld could ever hold up to it. It was worth a try tho.

kawi600

I usually patch aluminum motorcycle cases with epoxy and fiberglass weave. Youd have to get inside behind the crack for that to work properly. It might work on the outside for awhile but it will blow off soon after if theres pressure behind it. These cases get fairly hot and Ive never seen the metal epoxies melt. Otherwise your only options are TIG (this will not be an easy job.. its a casting and its one of those parts you wont want to warp) or a new transmission.

Abbynormal

I wonder how these aliminum brazing rods would work ?
http://newtechnologyproducts.net/aluminum_repair.asp

Clayten

The mig welder was made exclusively for welding aluminium. Aluminium is the easeist weldmetal to weld if you can see the puddle and the parent metal. Now haveing said that aluminium will pull and contort some what awfull as it will whant to shrink. So if you are going to weld aluminium it has to be done with small beads and let it cool in between beads hamering lightly (peening) the bead.
Welding cracks is just about as hard as it can get. if you can cut out the cracked area and weld in a new piece,cut pieces should be a circle pattern.If that can't be done then drill holes at the end of the crack. Use a grinder to find the end because the end is not where it appears by eye you can see and follow it as you run the grinder into the crack. Do the startups at each end and finsish in the middle of the bevell Also it must be clean and free of all oil other wise you will be dealing with perosity. Almost impossible unless it is steam cleaned.

red12valve

I'd say clean the case with a mild acid and hand it over to a good TIG welder.

cumminsdriver635

Well guys, the quicksteel we used was kinda old, and wasnt the best, so we bought some of the good stuff. JB Weld. We mixed it up, and gobbed it up pretty good all around the fitting, and cracks. I went down to the shop, and started it up, and it is now way better, but it still has a little drip every few seconds. We put a little more JB weld on it tonight, so tomorrow, we will be trying it again. As long as we can get it to where it isnt leaking much at all, then it will be fine. It was only leaking small drops after the JB Weld, so there may be hope yet. We will hope so anyways. We are looking forward to driving it.

Eric

Murf

Sweeeeeeeeeeeet!

Glad to hear it worked well for you guys.

If only Darth Vader had used it to rebuild the Death Star, He might still be with us!

Never, EVER underestimate the power of J(ames) B(rown) Weld!

Teddy Bear

Yeah hopefully it works. Even if it still leaks a little bit, i dont really care at this point. If it DOES work (and im prayin it does), I'll be more than happy. Just keepin my fingers crossed

Willdsl

I wounder if this stuff would fix it. Sounds to good to be true but worth a look. http://www.muggyweld.com/super5.html

jimk

I think I read that there is a kit that some one sells that is a tap and a longer fitting. Seems that the case is thin in that area. I hope that is correct. Sonnex if that is the way to spell the name of the company makes the kit . Good luck Jim

turbo thom

Here's what a poor fellow would do. Drain the tranny, clean the area very well, drill a few very small holes into the cracks. Try to cut some groves in the cracks also, and then apply the JB good stuff on the spot and make sure it penetrates the holes. Let that sit 24 hours. Should be good to go but not pretty to look at.

..Preston..