Can the engine be too cold when setting valve clearance?<br>I don't have access to a heated garage and air temp around 25 F. Any tips to make the job easier would be appreciated. First time owner, trying to catch up on maintenance.<br><br>Have a Merry Christmas.

 

As long as you can stand to adjust them out in the cold weather it is fine. ;D One of the tools that I have ran accross that seems to really make the job alot easier and take the &quot;feel&quot; and guesswork out of running the overhead is Cummins 6 in lb top stop clicker type torque driver. Basically, you slide the feeler gauge in and put the clicker tool on the set screw and turn it until you reach 6in lbs. Be sure you keep you feeler gauge under the rocker assembly when you tighten the nut. And thats it. No &quot;feeling&quot; for the right drag or nothing. This little tool shaved about 30 minutes off of my labor time. You will think that the rocker assembly is too tight when you pull the feller gauge out, but its not. What makes this tool so good is that you are able to set every one the same. This tool is nothing new, in fact all of the Cummins mechanics at Cummins Southern Plains in OKC swear by it.I have used this tool also on the 3126 CAT motors with very good luck. Also, alot of people make the mistake of tightening down the set screw nut like hercules. You DONT have to tighten the nut that tight. Just make sure they are good and tight after you run all of the valves. Hope this helps.
Monty

 

Monty,<br><br>Is this tool simply a modified in, lb., torque wrench? If so, I gues I could just put the correct but in mine and torque to 6 in.lb.?<br><br>Right??? ???

 

Yessir, you are correct. As long as you could put a flat head screwdriver bit on the end, any in lb. torque wrench would work.

 

Is there enough clearance for this tool to work under the cowl on #5 and #6 cylinders? Space seems to be pretty limited when adjusting #6.

 

You won't be abler to use the tool on #5 or #6 ..... the 1st gen trucks are different .... the engine is not stuffed under a cowl.......

 

Thanks Okie. Took a Christmas break so didn't answer sooner. I've got an inch/lb torque and will give it a try if my fingers don't get too cold. 9 degrees F this AM and me and the truck both start a bit slower. At least I get coffee. Wonder what it would be like to be plugged in all night like the truck?

 

The manual does say that the Engine SHOULD be cold when you adjust your valves. Under 150 degrees. So I wouldn't recommend warming up the engine to keep your fingers a little warm. Maybe if you had a little heater and have that plugged in letting the warm air float up through the engine compartment to keep you warm.

 

Add question. I've seen some conflicting information regarding the valve cover gaskets. Should these been changed with every valve adjustment or not? Anyone know the cost of a set (Cummins price)?<br><br>

 

I forget the cost at this time. Not very much. I usually do not change every time but it depends upon how they look. They usually get a little crusty and I just take a rag and wipe them very good with some oil to loosen them up. Be careful as I have pulled them apart, causing me to buy new ones right then and there. I have heard taht the Black ones are stronger then the Grey ones. I can no longer find the Black ones in Vermont so have started going with the others. Haven't had a problem though in 2 adjustments. Will probably buy new ones next time around. OOPS, maybe not since engine blew, getting a different engine this time around. Better and MORE HP. Gotta love it....

 

Thanks Scott. I'll probably pick up a set to have on hand. If it can go wrong it usually will. Would hate to do without the truck if the snow starts to pile up. 1/4 mile driveway and on-call for a hospital. The wife's Mystique just can't handle the snow drifts.

 

I just got a new set of vavle cover gaskets at NAPA. They were about $5 bucks each. Also, in my opinion, you should have enough room to get the Inch Lb torque wrench on 5 &amp; 6.<br>I've always doen it with a stuby flat tip. and if you take a flat tip bit, put it in a hexagonal socket, snap that on the wrench there is a fare amount of room.<br><br>I'm going to try it this weekend, if it's not too cold. Even us Southern boys get cold. Been down around 29 the last few morning. Thats cold for here. <br><br>Gary

 

The manual does say that the Engine SHOULD be cold when you adjust your valves. Under 150 degrees<br><br>FYI, when I was at Piers shop this summer Harry(no not Piers's last name) was running a set of valves and told me 100 F as the max, he even had a temp sensor like drag racers use to check the temp of the slicks and track.<br><br>Jim

 

[quote author=Nuttymopar link=board=16;threadid=8763;start=0#84941 date=1040916176]<br>The manual does say that the Engine SHOULD be cold when you adjust your valves. Under 150 degrees. So I wouldn't recommend warming up the engine to keep your fingers a little warm. Maybe if you had a little heater and have that plugged in letting the warm air float up through the engine compartment to keep you warm. <br>[/quote]<br><br>How about plugging in the block heater the night before and leaving it plugged in until you are done with the valve adj??? I've tried it this way and without and noticed no difference in engine performance or valve train rattle. With the engine block heater plugged in you stay nice and warm / toasty on a cold winter day