transfer case leaking, help
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From: florida
transfer case leaking, help
I have a 97 4x4, 237 K miles. The transfer case has started to leak, quite significantly I might add. Does anyone know anything about splitting the case to reseal it? I think I can handle replacing the front and rear seals but not sure about splitting it
Please help before I tear this thing up due to low fluid
lewis
Please help before I tear this thing up due to low fluid
lewis
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 596
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I got the following information from a member here named got...DIESEL?. I the procedure used it to split the cases of my transfer case and it worked great. I just resealed it with RTV and no more leaks. The only hard part was removing and replacing the split-ring (or snap ring). I borrowed a big strong pair of snap ring pliers for it. Here is the info from got...DIESEL?:
No problem. Yes it is only RTV, and yes you can do it in the truck.
Other than the two main halves, you'll see, on the driveshaft end, a tailshaft housing with a seal that seals the driveshaft yoke. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in place and take it off.
Next there is another housing under that also held on by 4 bolts. Before you take them out, remove the snap ring that locates the rear bearing on the output shaft. 241's have a history of this snap ring failing, so I always replace it rather than stretch it twice. It's fairly heavy, so a stout pair of snap ring pliers is handy.
Once that is off, go ahead and remove the 4 bolts. That rear bearing will slide off of the shaft WITH the housing. There are pry places on two sides of the housing to get it started.
Once that is off, you are close to being inside the transfer case. Only one more thing left. What you are looking at next is the oil pump. It looks to have 5 tabs that index within the housing you just removed. Mark it for reference, it's clock position matters, make sure you line up the tabs with the slots in the last housing you removed.
You'll also notice a triangular hole in the pump cover that matches one in the base of the pump. These must align as well.
You'll see I believe 5 or 6 phillips machine screws...they hold the top cover on the pump. Remove these, but before you do, give them a good tap with a hammer and punch to make sure they break free and you don't slip the phillips head.
Once this is off there is nothing stopping you from finally taking the rear half off. Undo all the perimeter bolts. Again, there are two pry places on two sides....use them. It will come off kind of stiff because of the press in locating dowels. As you get it off, you will be inside the transfer case.
Notice there is a large light tension spring and washer on the end of the shift rail that might fall off when you remove the cover. It's okay, and they probably will fall off, just make sure to put them back on the end of the shift rail before you close it up.
The end of the shift rail is supported within the primary tailshaft housing. Be careful of the oil pick-up, it's only plastic, so don't crush it when you re-assemble the two halves.
Next clean up the flanges, apply a bead of RTV, and reverse the operation.
I know it seems like a lot of work, but trust me, it's really quite simple. Just take your time and don't force anything!!
Just follow this step by step and you should be OK.
No problem. Yes it is only RTV, and yes you can do it in the truck.
Other than the two main halves, you'll see, on the driveshaft end, a tailshaft housing with a seal that seals the driveshaft yoke. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in place and take it off.
Next there is another housing under that also held on by 4 bolts. Before you take them out, remove the snap ring that locates the rear bearing on the output shaft. 241's have a history of this snap ring failing, so I always replace it rather than stretch it twice. It's fairly heavy, so a stout pair of snap ring pliers is handy.
Once that is off, go ahead and remove the 4 bolts. That rear bearing will slide off of the shaft WITH the housing. There are pry places on two sides of the housing to get it started.
Once that is off, you are close to being inside the transfer case. Only one more thing left. What you are looking at next is the oil pump. It looks to have 5 tabs that index within the housing you just removed. Mark it for reference, it's clock position matters, make sure you line up the tabs with the slots in the last housing you removed.
You'll also notice a triangular hole in the pump cover that matches one in the base of the pump. These must align as well.
You'll see I believe 5 or 6 phillips machine screws...they hold the top cover on the pump. Remove these, but before you do, give them a good tap with a hammer and punch to make sure they break free and you don't slip the phillips head.
Once this is off there is nothing stopping you from finally taking the rear half off. Undo all the perimeter bolts. Again, there are two pry places on two sides....use them. It will come off kind of stiff because of the press in locating dowels. As you get it off, you will be inside the transfer case.
Notice there is a large light tension spring and washer on the end of the shift rail that might fall off when you remove the cover. It's okay, and they probably will fall off, just make sure to put them back on the end of the shift rail before you close it up.
The end of the shift rail is supported within the primary tailshaft housing. Be careful of the oil pick-up, it's only plastic, so don't crush it when you re-assemble the two halves.
Next clean up the flanges, apply a bead of RTV, and reverse the operation.
I know it seems like a lot of work, but trust me, it's really quite simple. Just take your time and don't force anything!!
Just follow this step by step and you should be OK.
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