To Straight pipe? or not.....
Fellow Cummins owners,
Im kinda tired of the sound of the stinger exhaust that i have on my ram, It seems to sound rather wimpy, i have a friend that has stock straight pipe with a five inch tip so to say, and that truck rumbles like crazy! I was wondering, if I was to straight pipe it, would i lose any horses or torque? or would my engine better benefit from dropping of the exhaust as a whole and straight piping it all? Dont we need backpressure to send xhaust back to the turbo? because i know that (i think) droppin the exhaust lowers backpressure, does that have any effect on boost? Thanks for your help and time in answerin my question...
TxDiesel007
Im kinda tired of the sound of the stinger exhaust that i have on my ram, It seems to sound rather wimpy, i have a friend that has stock straight pipe with a five inch tip so to say, and that truck rumbles like crazy! I was wondering, if I was to straight pipe it, would i lose any horses or torque? or would my engine better benefit from dropping of the exhaust as a whole and straight piping it all? Dont we need backpressure to send xhaust back to the turbo? because i know that (i think) droppin the exhaust lowers backpressure, does that have any effect on boost? Thanks for your help and time in answerin my question...
TxDiesel007
Trending Topics
Put the longest straight thru glass pack as close to the front of the exhaust system and you will lose the drone, some have experimented with clamping two by two angle iron up and down to find where the drone is eliminated with some success. On mine it took a 36inch straight thru glass pack up front and no drone. Goodluck,,Rick
how I eliminated my drone w/ my 5" straight pipe... now, I will admit that the word "eliminate" is used liberaly here, but it went from absolutely PAINFUL to very livable... no problem when I was done untill you got up over 80mph, and then it quited back down about 85 
anyhow, a length of big truck flex pipe from the downpipe to about the front of the bed... then, all connections from the bed to after the axle were welded, and I added three very stiff hangers and darn near hard mounted the exhaust to the frame... there were still rubber isolaters, but they were VERY stiff...
if I had it to do over again, I might experament with hard mounting the exhaust to the frame...
the key is the flex pipe. it doesn't vibrate very well, and doesn't resonate very well... firmly mounting the rest of the system sortof acts like putting your hand on a vibrating tuning fork... it dampens it considerably!
and THEN I added a bunch of sound deadener to the interior sheet metal... the back wall of the cab is the most important... but I have it all over the cab. I've got 1/16" lead sheet... two layers on the back wall, a layer on the floor, a layer on the firewall (including behind the dash when I did the AC core), and on the roof I did one full layer, and doubled up and even trippled up in spots that seemed to resonate the most when I hit them w/ my hand.
oh yeah, I also shot about 9 tubes of caulk between the two layers of sheet metal in the roof to give it some density.
I did all of the roof stuff after I installed my stacks... with the 5" straight system, the roof didn't really transfer much sound.
that may seem a bit excessive, but I get my lead sheet free... BUT, if you REALLY want the killer sound that you can ONLY get form a straight piped system, and you want to be as comfortable as possible while driving, sound deadener is the key... double up on that back wall of the cab! there's nothing on it from the factory!!

anyhow, a length of big truck flex pipe from the downpipe to about the front of the bed... then, all connections from the bed to after the axle were welded, and I added three very stiff hangers and darn near hard mounted the exhaust to the frame... there were still rubber isolaters, but they were VERY stiff...
if I had it to do over again, I might experament with hard mounting the exhaust to the frame...
the key is the flex pipe. it doesn't vibrate very well, and doesn't resonate very well... firmly mounting the rest of the system sortof acts like putting your hand on a vibrating tuning fork... it dampens it considerably!
and THEN I added a bunch of sound deadener to the interior sheet metal... the back wall of the cab is the most important... but I have it all over the cab. I've got 1/16" lead sheet... two layers on the back wall, a layer on the floor, a layer on the firewall (including behind the dash when I did the AC core), and on the roof I did one full layer, and doubled up and even trippled up in spots that seemed to resonate the most when I hit them w/ my hand.
oh yeah, I also shot about 9 tubes of caulk between the two layers of sheet metal in the roof to give it some density.
I did all of the roof stuff after I installed my stacks... with the 5" straight system, the roof didn't really transfer much sound.
that may seem a bit excessive, but I get my lead sheet free... BUT, if you REALLY want the killer sound that you can ONLY get form a straight piped system, and you want to be as comfortable as possible while driving, sound deadener is the key... double up on that back wall of the cab! there's nothing on it from the factory!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MTC
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
4
Jul 14, 2009 06:27 PM
megagoat06
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2007 and up
4
Feb 25, 2007 08:08 PM
Jordan5687
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
2
Feb 14, 2007 05:00 PM
PADZZ
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
1
Feb 9, 2003 08:33 AM



