I am about to replace the lift pump on my truck, and everywhere I read about it from "official" places that should be in the know, say to remove the fuel heater and the lift pump at the same time, even if you're just replacing the lift pump.

My question is why should I remove the fuel heater too? It seems like I'm just doing a lot of work for something that I'm going to put right back on. I'm not replacing it, so why should I remove it? Why can't I just disconnect the rubber hose and only remove the lift pump? Am I missing something?

 

I've never removed the heater with the pump, in fact have never heard of doing so.
Some folks remove the starter for easier access to the pump.
If you do may as well replace the contacts at the same time.

 

Well, I couldn't see any reason for doing it, but that's what it says to do in the FSM, so who am I to argue???

I rebuilt the starter a few years ago and probably haven't driven it even 10k miles, so it should be fine for a LONG time to come.

I looked it over and decided that removing the starter was going to be the easiest way to do this, but I just didn't see the reason for removing the prefilter/heater too.

First, I'm going to replace the fuel lines, just to make sure that isn't the culprit. But, if that doesn't fix the hard starting problem, I want to know everything I need to know to remove and replace that pump without spending a lot of needless time replacing things for no good reason.

Thanks for the feedback!!

 

I find that the lift pump is always stuck to the heater by the gasket, and the heater is always stuck to the block by the gasket. I do everything in my power to break the pump loose from the heater without breaking the heater loose from the block. If the heater does come loose from the block, I'll remove it and replace the gasket so I don't end up with a leak.

 

I TAKE IT OUT ALL IN ONE, i CAN GET A SMALL WIRE WHEEL AND GRINDER IN FOR CLEAN UP AND LOCK TIGHT THE GASKETS SO THEY DO NOT SLIP OUT OF PLACE, AND I DID PULL THE STARTER FOR ACCESS, ALSO TOOK OUT MY PLASTIC WHEEL WELL AND SAWSALL A WINDOW IN AND I CAN HAVE THE JOB DONE IN HARDLY NO TIME AT ALL, ALSO CHANGE OUT THE FUEL FILTER IN ABOUT 5 MINUTES!

 

If that's your plan of attack (smart way!) then check the fuel pressure first.
Cheaper than just your own labor to replace the pump.
Instructions> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...-12-valve.html

 

The term "fuel heater" I assume applies to the fuel heater & strainer assembly. It appears the instructions are combined for not only replacing the lift pump, but servicing the strainer & fuel heater. I didn't take it out to replace the strainer, but I did my work on a lift.

 

I did both just because. I like to refresh gaskets that get cracked or disturbed during the removal process. I cleaned out the strainer, inspected the heater plugs and wiring and then replaced the rubber elbow hose between the heater and lift pump. Cleaned all threaded connections and lightly dressed all the compression contact surfaces. Cleaned block, mating surfaces and installed all components.

I didn't want to put the new pump on only to have a cracked gasket on the heater causing a weeping oil leak that would have taken another 10 minutes to prep.. FWIW....

 

It is easier to remove them as an assembly than moving the L shaper fuel hose clamp and breaking loose the hose from the pump. Besides, it is probably due a new hose anyway.

 

When I changed the LP on my '97 I took the heater off and left it off. I just put a inline filter on. less stuff to leak and wear out. Fuel heater won't help fuel from gelling only anti gel will in my experience.

 

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I guess I'll just play it by ear and see what it looks like when I get in there. If I find that the truck starts and runs just fine after replacing the fuel lines, I'll probably just let the rest of it go until warmer weather (or a cleaned out garage) arrives.

I already cleaned and replaced the prefilter screen (even though the original was perfectly clean), and I don't see any wetness on the line going from the pump to the heater, so I'm hoping that if I don't have to mess with it, I can just leave it alone. Like I said, at least until warmer temperatures arrive.

I only have to have the truck get me thru until probably March or April, then my temp job is over and I can afford to spend more time working on it. Until then, I just want to make it roadworthy for a few months.

 

93 dodge is leaking fuel at the fuel heater how is the best way to get the heater nipple out to replace the gasket and o-ring? and should I put the heater back on or leave it off?

 

93 dodge leaking fuel at the heater how is the best way to get the nipple out that holds the heater on.And do I need to put the heayer back on ?

 

@ levans.

See your thread asking the same question. I've moved it to the 1st gen forum board. These 2nd gen folks may have a different setup.