Screwed up while making Governor Lever Arm Adjustment

I own a 96 2WD (P7100 pump) with auto tranny. Truck has a TST #8 plate, 3000 rpm GSK, and timing has been bumped to 15.75 degrees. The tranny has been rebuilt with a DTT master overhaul kit and DTT torque converter. After the GSK and timing mods were done the truck never had the low end boost response that it did prior to these mods. After reading several threads and talking with different TDR members and PDR it was suggested that I check the adjustment of the Governor Lever Arm. I did this and found that yes the arm was contacting the plate very low below the tip of the bottom nose on the plate. I had to turn the adjusting stud almost all the way out to get the lever to contact the plate just below the of the bottom nose on the plate.
Here is where my nightmare begins…I was attempting to back the stud out to put loctite on it when I dropped it into the pump. I tried to retrieve the stud and 10mm lock nut with a pencil magnet for 2 hours with no luck. I even removed the cam plate and tried from that angle. I checked the position of the lever arm with no stud/lock nut and it was still very close to where it should be. I took a gamble that the stud/lock nut would just fall to the bottom of the pump housing (against my better judgment) and put everything back together. For a couple of days the truck ran great. The low end performance was back (boost would quickly build to 33 psi) and the GSK allowed it to freely rev to 3000 rpm. Life was great until last night when approaching a red light the engine did not want to idle down. In drive with brakes on rpm was at 1300. After light turned green the truck accelerated to 70 mph with my foot not even on the accelerator. I got the truck home but the front brakes may never be the same. I have a new respect for the torque of the 5.9.
Questions:
What are my options?
Is the plug on the back of the pump below the data plate for access/drain or does it hold something in place?
Can the back rear section of the pump be removed while pump is still on engine?
Is the back section of the pump all mechanical (could the stud/locknut have caused major internal damage in that area?
If pump needs to be removed do any of you have step by step directions?
Does anyone have a drawing showing the internals of the back section of the P7100 pump?

Sorry for the long post………thanks in advance for advice from those of you that really know your way around the P7100.

I live in Athens, Al ….if the pump needs to come off to be serviced who do you recommend/trust.

Thanks,

Don

 

Sorry I can't help you much with your problem... I know some others will be able to. I just wanted to say that must have been one heck of a ride home!

 

Oh boy. The little screw causes expensive damage in the governor portion of the pump. Your best option is to start looking for a used p-pump.

 

if it comes to the point of needing a new pump, make sure u get a 215 pump and the power will be nice.

 

Heres some tech pics from Piersdiesel.com

http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

 

I would do an exchange for a 400 hp pump from BD Power
https://www.shopatron.com/index/532....0140.20145.0.0
Don't let the prices scare you, the core rebate is very high.

 

Here's another option:

http://pensacoladiesel.com/index.php...ategory_id=193

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...mZ190150219538

 

even with the rebate it's still $2700. I think u can get a 215 pump for like 700-900 and get plenty of power, and with the extra cash for a turbo etc..

 

do a search here and you can find some salvage units reasonable www.car-parts.com

 

hey I ended up getting a 180 pump on ebay for like $500 so dont worry too much man they are out there for an affordable price just takes some looking I hope things work out for you man.