for me to take care of guages and the dowel pin fix.

I have an Isspro pyro, trans and boost guage arriving on Friday. I'm thinking that I might want to install this weekend.

I only need to drill and tap the manifold for the pyro. I bought the t fitting for the trans temp, so it is just a matter of cutting the soft line and putting the t in place.

I will be using the a pillar triple mount option.

About how long for the install?

I know the KDP kit is about 4 hours I'm just trying to plan my time.

Also, what size hole is needed for 1/8 npt?

Any special tools I need to get a hold of? Is an engine barring tool required fo an auto?

thanks
pc

 

The 1/8 NPT tap takes an R size drill bit (0.339). Don't run the tap too deep, or your fitting won't seal right, remember the NPT is a tapered thread. I had to order the tap and drill bit from Diesel Manor because I could not find it locally. Here is the link:

http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/TAP1418.asp

And here are instructions on how to drill and tap the exhaust manifold:

http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPyroInstall.htm

The T-fitting for the trans temp gauge will work, but its not the best place to put the sensor. The better choice is a Dodge line that incorporates the sensor in line, but it costs over $100. Do a search in this forum if you're interested.

I took the whole weekend to install my gauges, but I was taking my time.

You don't need a baring tool to install the KDP fix, but you do need to rotate the engine to tighten the cover bolts under gear. Just put the dampener back in and turn the engine with a bolt.

Good luck.

 

A good rule of thumb in tapping pipe threads is to tap just deep enough to turn the fitting 3 turns by hand. This is what I did for all pipe threading when I did it for a living and had no trouble with leaks.

 

Doesn't the 47RH line already have a port on the driver's side of the transmission? I removed the stock temp fitting and used the one for the gauge in it's place.

 

Yes. On a '95 you don't have to cut the line and tee into it, just use the port for the stock sender. Teeing in works but just gives you a couple more potential leak points. Your new sender is probably 1/8", you will need a 1/8"x3/8" bushing from the hardware store unless your kit came with one.

You will have to trick the computer into thinking the fluid is warmed up or it won't go into OD missing the stock sender. Easy, just jump across the connector that went to the stock sender with a 1000 ohm resistor (25¢ at Radio Shack) Put the stock sender in your tool box.

 

Do I cut off the sensor and then jump it, or jump it with the sensor still on?

Thanks,
pc

 

I'm going to pick up a 3/8 npt T. That will go into the plug factory bolt, then one port will be for the factory sensor and one for the new guage. that way I will have a backup.

Anyone see any problems with this idea? I'm wondering if the T will allow enough fluid to get to the sensors to trip my overdrive override?

pc

 

Just disconnect the the sensor from it's plug you no longer need it, the connector that's left hanging has two prongs with a slit down the middle. The resistor leads fit nicely in these slits. Make sure the resistor leads don't short together.

 

Been there, done that, it won't work. The aftermarket reading will be low, the stock sender won't get warm enough to allow OD lockup for 25 miles in cool weather.
The probe needs to be in the fluid flow otherwise you're waiting for the metal tee to heat up before the gauge will move.

 

Ill be stopping at Radio shack after work!
pc