Ronny Bailey

In eight years this, truck has been so reliable I've never had learn anything about the motor.
It only failed me once, and that was a defective battery. Otherwise, never a moment's trouble.
Fluids and filters changed regularly.

So here's what's happening: after it has sat for 8+ hours, it's hard to start.
I always give it a little throttle when cranking.
Turns over great but doesn't start right up. Runs very rough for a few seconds (have to pump the accelerator to keep it going), then everything's back to normal. After driving a few minutes, I can shut it down and it will start back up like nothing ever happened.
No cold weather here yet, and it was in the 70s the first time it happened.

Thought it might be the battery, so I did some measuring.
When I got home, it measured 13.3v right after I shut it down.
Ten hours later it was 12.8 before starting. 14.0v just after starting, with the motor running.
Stopped at Wal-Mart to get it tested, but had forgot a wrench.
It's rated 850 CCA at 32 degrees, 700 CCA.
They tested it with what looked like a voltmeter, without disconnecting it.
The printout says it measured 720 CCA at 13.08v. 73 degrees.
They also checked the acid with what looked like an eyedropper with 3 plastic ***** in it. That tested good also.
Am I on the wrong track thinking about the battery? It's a Wal-Mart EverStart that's 4 1/2 years old.
I'm getting laid off next month, so I sure don't want to replace a good battery.

This may be related: While diagnosing the flaky temp gauge, I disconnected what I thought was the temp sensor, but it turned out to be grid heater sensor. It was clean, so I reconnected it.
I also installed a BHAF, but this started a week or two after that.
Otherwise, the motor's 100% stock.
Did a thread search for cold start problems, but nothing seems to fit.
Don't see any fuel leaking, etc.

Sorry for the long post, but I don't want to leave out anything important.
I'd like to get this fixed soon, so I can get the KDP taken care of.

jknowles4

Doesn't sound like the battery to me. Could be some air in the fuel lines due to a leak somewhere. It doesn't necessarily have to be a dripping leak.

Hodge

Sounds like the lift pump. The previous owner of my truck had the same problem- would sit overnight, and would have to crank and crank to start. For the rest of the day, it was fine. But let it sit, and it took a while. He had the lift pump replaced, and that took care of it.
It is nice to buy a truck from a close friend- you can know the whole history. I saw the truck on the lot before he did, but wasn't interested because it was an auto. Time softens a person...

runningbird

time to replace the rubber fuel lines. it seems like you are loosing prime.

Dartmouth 12V

Your symptoms describe an air leak in your fuel system. If you search, you will find that there is a ton of information about the various sources of air leaks. I would rule out the starting system(including battery) because it cranks over quickly and your voltages are good. Your IAT sensor won't cause the problem because it is happening at warmer temps.

The trouble with an air leak in the fuel system is that it can be very hard to find. A very small leak can cause problems and you usually won't be able to see any sign of leaking fuel. The possible culprits are the fuel lines, the fuel heater, the tank pickup, an improperly installed fuel filter, and the lift pump itself.

If you have original lines, you are on borrowed time. Replacing the lines from the tank all of the way up to the engine with marine rubber lines is how most people solve this one.

The fuel heater can be hard to diagnose but a good place to start is to take the plug out and see whether the plastic has melted at all in there. You can also pack the connector full of really heavy grease before putting it back together and if your problem goes away for a bit, then you know it is in the fuel heater.

The tank pickup is less likely and part of it can be visually inspected. If the symptom is fuel level dependent, then it is likely a problem here.

A lot of people accidentally end up with two o-rings on their fuel filter which will cause your symptoms. It is unlikely that your lift pump is bad although they do occasionally get air leaks.

Good luck.

patdaly

I would start trying to prime it with the lever on the LP. Pump the hooey out of it and see if it starts right up.

If it does, find your air leak, rubber or steel, fix it and you are good.

Ronny Bailey

Sounds line the first (and easiest) thing to do is fill the tank and see if that fixes it. I know the sending unit has a problem because the gauge bounces around until I've driven 50 miles or so after getting a full tank. It would be good if I could fix both problems at the same time.

The fuel filter hasn't been changed for a while, so that may not be the problem.
Might be a good idea to go ahead and change it anyway.

Does anyone have a picture of that priming lever on the LP? I had been looking for a rubber bulb to press.

Does the 92 have rubber or plastic fuel lines?
Also, why would the symptom go away if it's an air leak? It seems like it would cause it to run rough all the time.

I sure appreciate the advice...

patdaly

On the 92 VE pumped trucks you have a diaphragm type LP, it is a metal lever on the side of the LP. Goes up and down not in and out.

Usually loss of prime is how they start, as it gets worse it can turn to running rough or not at all.

infidel

By far the most common hard start problem is caused by the line in red below being rotted out.
You'll need about 2' of 5/16" diesel rated hose and a couple of hose clamps.
Filter needs to be removed to get at it, might want to change it while you're at it.

Ronny Bailey

From reading other threads, it looks like the hose to get is the Gates SAE 30R9. My note says it's Diesel rated, marine grade.
Went to four of the big-name auto parts stores, but nobody had it in any size.
Do I need to go to a shop that sells parts for boats? There is one in town, but they're not open on weekends so I'll have to wait if that's where I need to go.

The truck seems to be starting easier today, but it might just realize I plan on taking a wrench to it...

kevellis32

Change your oil and replace your fuel filter with all new rubber seals. I bet it will solve the problem

Ronny Bailey

Changed the oil yesterday - after 3200 miles of easy driving. The fuel filter's next...
Think the oil change had anything to do with the starting getting easier?
It started right up tonight when I left for work. Hmmm...

Tow-mater01

mine is having your identical problem, replaced all rubber, still has the problem
found out my primer button was missing from my pump!! filled er with silicone and she fires on the first turn in 30*F

Ronny Bailey

It's very strange, but the cold start problem has disappeared, at least for now.
Since it came back from the mechanic for the KDP fix and to replace a leaking water pump, it hasn't messed up since. It's been a couple of weeks now.
Not sure what to think.