Ok so I thought it was the ball joints that were making noise when I was driving my truck, but it would only click when I was turning. Anyhow I was unable to get the axle nut off so that I could R&R my ball joints so I took the truck to a good mechanic in town and found out that my LDS is bad. He is checking junk yards right now for a whole new axle because the LDS put in is going to run me about 1700. I have been wanting to go to a locker and I feel now would be a good time to put one in, what do you guys think? Who should I go with, I do about 50 percent highway driving and 50 percent off road driving with this truck so I am not sure what to look into, hoping you guys have some good input for me. Thanks in advance for your time and input.

 

I dont know what axle you have or If you work on your truck yourself... But 1700 is WAY to much I think. I cant imagine a fullcase detroit+install would run over a grand.

Also... I dont think a bad clutch driven posi or "lsd" would click... they just normally dont spin both tires.

I would get a second opinion.

Dustin

 

The recommended procedure is to add 2 ounces or so at a time, drive some figure 8s and see if the chatter stops. Never use more friction modifier than you need - if you do, you will no longer have a limited slip differential!

Rusty

 

I have a dana 70 axle with a 32 spline, now from what I understand the LDS was trying to lock up and it would go click click then a loud pop. The mechanic pulled off the diff cover and said that the LDS was gone bad and it was part of something but I dont remember everything he said. Basicly I would need a new LDS. He called some junk yards to have them search for an axle to put on my truck because it would be cheaper to do that then replace the LDS. Then I did some researce for a locker instead of putting a LDS back in and found a Detroit Truetrac locker and that was 987.25 shipped to the mechanic and he told me that he would charge me 250 to put it in.

 

Are you sure the front is a 70? Usually the front is a 60, the rear either a 70 or 80. If your front is a 60, I have a perfect LSD, 3.54, 32 spline, for sale for a lot lot cheaper than 987. I would check that the Trutrac also is a limited slip, not a true locking diff, there is a big difference.

 

Ok it is the rear end that bad, my back axle which is the Dana 70 and the ring gear is broken in it. As far as the trutrac goes I was told that it was a locker and it was used on big trucks like dump trucks and so on and they have just recently made it for our trucks. Heres the web site describing it, http://www.detroitlocker.com/DT.htm tell me what you think.

 

They are a good limited slip locker. Have sold and installed my of them. The nice thing about these is there no need for additives.

 

There are three basic diffs, open, limited slip, and locking. Forget the open. The problems occur with the words and phrases like "limited slip locker", both individuals and the industry uses it, but it is a bit misleading. A LSD diff will apply power to one wheel, the wheel that has the best traction, and it will shut off most if not all power to the other wheel. If I jack up one tire of my front end and leave it in the air, it will not spin at all, but the other will spin on dry pavement, burning rubber trying to get the truck off. A locking will apply power to BOTH wheels no matter what. If I did the same jacking with a locker, the wheel in the air would spin at the same RPM as the wheel on the ground, both axles being "locked "together. Be aware, not all LSD diffs are created equal, some have a higher torque bias ratio than others. The detroit diff you are looking at is not a locker, it is a limited slip.

 

Ok well in that case I would like something great for off roading, something that will take the power away from the wheel slipping and put it to the wheel with the traction. What is the best thing I can get?