Isspro pyrometer install.
Isspro pyrometer install.
WTH. The instructions make no sense. Where do you mount the circuit box?
Do the terminals from the thermocouple just bolt to the terminals off the circuit box? Cover them up? Tape?
I broke the A pillar cover off. Tried to save it, but it didn't work out. The say you can use the old A pillar cover with the new gauge cover. Or not. Just use the new cover by itself. Do you drill holes through them all to sheet metal screw them back on?
I'll figure it out, but man, could they just provide instructions that make sense?
Do the terminals from the thermocouple just bolt to the terminals off the circuit box? Cover them up? Tape?
I broke the A pillar cover off. Tried to save it, but it didn't work out. The say you can use the old A pillar cover with the new gauge cover. Or not. Just use the new cover by itself. Do you drill holes through them all to sheet metal screw them back on?
I'll figure it out, but man, could they just provide instructions that make sense?
I've got autometer, which came with ring terminals on the end of the pyro probe and the "factory leads" with matching ring terminals, looks like similar setup to isspro. So yes, cover up the connections to keep either side from ever accidentally grounding out/touching each other...and to keep them clean. My kit came with some heat shrink, works well.
Pyrometer probe is just a variable resistor based on heat, so it should require a switched 12V source, ground, and (if desired) a dimmed light source as well.
Isspro directions
Autometer directions
Good luck.
Pyrometer probe is just a variable resistor based on heat, so it should require a switched 12V source, ground, and (if desired) a dimmed light source as well.
Isspro directions
Autometer directions
Good luck.
I think I have it figured out. I do think I have to cut the wires to the circuit box because there is no way I'm going to get that clip connection through the firewall.
Right?
Thanks.
Right?
Thanks.
I've got autometer, which came with ring terminals on the end of the pyro probe and the "factory leads" with matching ring terminals, looks like similar setup to isspro. So yes, cover up the connections to keep either side from ever accidentally grounding out/touching each other...and to keep them clean. My kit came with some heat shrink, works well.
Pyrometer probe is just a variable resistor based on heat, so it should require a switched 12V source, ground, and (if desired) a dimmed light source as well.
Isspro directions
Autometer directions
Good luck.
Pyrometer probe is just a variable resistor based on heat, so it should require a switched 12V source, ground, and (if desired) a dimmed light source as well.
Isspro directions
Autometer directions
Good luck.
A pyrometer is a thermocouple.
Thermocouples use two dis-similar metals soldered together that create a voltage which varies with heat.
No power is required for a thermocouple to work, the gauge needs power for lighting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermocouple
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I "had" the same isspro set-up he is talking about; it had a square green box the probe wires came into, about 2" square that sat under the hood? Mine got too hot, bubbled the stickers off and I replaced it when it took a dump with the old school isspro set up without the box. It reads 100* hotter
YIKES!! I was warm with the old gauge!!
YIKES!! I was warm with the old gauge!!
Isspro sells both the old style pyro without the amplifier box and the newer type that has the amp.
The old style is more expensive and more preferable to me at least.
When I've installed gauges with amps for people I just use several wraps of electrical tape to attach the box to the steering column under the dash.
Funky I know, but it works. Finding a place under the dash to attach the box with screws is next to impossible unless you build some sort of bracket.
The old style is more expensive and more preferable to me at least.
When I've installed gauges with amps for people I just use several wraps of electrical tape to attach the box to the steering column under the dash.
Funky I know, but it works. Finding a place under the dash to attach the box with screws is next to impossible unless you build some sort of bracket.
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