RenegadeT

Well, I should've done more research before buying this truck. I sold a perfectly good 24V for this 12V because I was worried about the VP44 IP, how's that for irony.
Apparently the PO had some similar issues, but did swap the IP pump...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=106652
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=106685
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=110622
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=112728
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=113369
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=110730
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=113511

Is the governor part of the IP? I thought it was, but it looks like the PO was having issues before he replaced the IP, and now they continued.
If I pull the pump off and get it looked at or even rebuilt, what other parts need to be addressed?

I had slid the fuel plate from all the back to halfway forward before I had trouble. I think I drove it for a week or 2 like that before it tached out and died.

Any help is appreciated, I'm gonna have to get this thing fixed.

John Faughn

You might want to send it off to a known diesel performance place so you can get what you want & they know what there doing , check here off the home page links / adds , maybe pick out a name that seems familar to ya from post , hopefully close to your location , you should be able to get to some one at where you want to send it , tell then what your looking for [ and the history of pump ] then they would suggest , if not then call the next place , but they can only give good help with a plan , daily driver or a compition truck .
I suggest this because if someone if someone has been in there before and now there is a problem , you need to start over .

12valve

i agree.... if its a "stuck rack" stuck plunger in a barrel.... or something broke in there.... the rack travel might be stuck to the back of the pump (fuel off) no matter if you pull up the solenoid, if its stuck, the rack wont travel, to make sure and check that.... you can take of the afc housing, and stick a screwdriver into it, you see the rack on the top of the pump (it has a spring on it, a square piece of steel, and a round pin...

Now with the fuel shut off solenoid up, push that rack forward... if it doesnt travel freely, there's an internal pump problem,

i have a pump, i thought it was a stuck plunger, but its only a little broken piece,that connects the first element to the rack, so it gets stuck everytime the truck's shut off, and has to be pushed forward, by hand (under the afc housing) to make it start!

Special tools are needed to take apart the front end of the pump

hope it makes sense

RenegadeT

Well I dug into it a little further (I work slow ) and found the PO only used one out of three bolts to hold the throttle linkage to the IP

I'm still planning on pulling the IP pump and having a shop go thru it. Do you think there is something external to the linkage that's causing my truck not to start?
To summarize my previous threads, the truck stuck at full throttle plus more, then finally shutoff after a few minutes. It was a scary few minutes, so I'm not sure if my dumping the clutch and holding the brakes finally cut it off, or something internal happened and caused it to shutdown.

RenegadeT

Finally got a FP reading...24psi into the IP while cranking. I'm fixing to pull the IP in the next few weeks.

RenegadeT

Here's some pics with the AFC off. One with the fuel shutoff solenoid up and one down. Of course the sol. is off, just the lever is moved
Does anything here look out of the ordinary?

RenegadeT

Got the IP rebuilt...diagnosis: stuck rack, one stuck plunger, another very worn.
They didnt like the fuel plate, I didnt quite understand why, it wasnt engaging the governor springs at all or something. They put a stock plate in an gave me the original back.

Here's what the PO had in there, what do you think about this plate? I don't think I'll put this back in, the throttle pedal was always very 'sticky', but once the truck finally started accelerating, it did it quickly.

Fueling around

Stuck plunger huh. So what happened to the fresh pump that was supposed to be in there?
Plate appears to be a home ground #4 profile. Compared to a #10 crappy bottom end, but more fuel on the top.

-John

RenegadeT

Oh well, that's the crapshoot you deal with when buying used vehicles. I should've done a little more reading of the PO's posts here, and I would've seen the history. Who knows, maybe he got snookered and did buy a new/rebuilt pump

You described the torque plate exactly, no bottom end. It will be intersting to see what stock is like

Fueling around

Stock in a good pump is better than any plate in a bad pump.
If you're good at machining, just re-cut the bottom ramp with a little more angle and set the governor arm to ride it. I've considered cutting the bottom of my #4 to more of a #10 slope to get more low rpm fuel.
The #4 profile is better matched to a stock converter where the rpm rise quicker, which is ironic. A stock converter cannot handle the hp from a #4