I put a 3K GSK kit on yesterday and all seemed fine. The RPMS were pretty low so I do not think they were adjusted correctly but with the idle screw I could bring it upto ~775 RPMS. It seemed to drive fine, then this morning about 45minutes into my commute the truck started accelerating with cruise control on. I popped it in nuetral and shut it down and got towed home ($111). Every time I start it, it immediatly revs 3K+ RPMS and has to be shutdown. I am about to go pull the GSK springs but can you guys think of anything else? Would too tight/loose on the GSK cause this? Governor arm lever?

HELP!

Zack

 

Maybe while in there you disturbed thye throttle linkage/rod? Hopefully the spring retainer did not come off. Not sure if that would cause high rpms. Did you double check your idle adjustment bolt/linkage?

Did you have a drastic rpm change after installing the springs? Should have been no more than a couple hundred rpm. If it was more than that, then your springs were adjustments/measurements were off. KD

 

I tore it all apart the govenor lever is fine, the GSK springs all look fine, one seems a little tighter than the other and i had a very tiny lope in rpm that would go away, nothing excessive. The linkage all looks fine too. I am going to pull out all the GSK springs and reinstall going 2 clicks after the initial click, and making sure I did not miss any shims. The thing I am worried about if a shim or something somehow fell into the pump... I seriously hope that isnt the case, but like I said everything seems to turn freely with no problesm?!?

Zack

 

can you get rpms to go back down by pushing back on the throttle linkage? Ive heard of the governor arm getting bound up on the edge of the cam plate so that it restricts power, but never that it sticks and wont descend. Could be possible. Are you checking it with the fuel shutoff solenoid pulled up?
This coincided with the install of the GS3K right? I can ask someone who works on these motors often if hes ever had a spring kit install cause a runaway.

 

Ok I took them apart and back together and the problem is still there. The throttle linkage moves, BUT very hard to press. The pedal is hard to press like there is heavy resistance and then all of a sudden it will move. It definitly is not right. Nothing seems disconnected or frayed?? I REALLY need to get this fixed today please help!!!

Zack

 

If I remember right there was a recall to replace throttle cables due to fraying, at least on the 96 models. Mine did the sticking thing on me a couple of times before I had it replaced. Usually I could stomp on it and get it to release, but I wouldn't really recommend that as you may get it stuck further open than it was.

Can you slow it down by pushing back on the linkage?

 

OK heres the deal, I got the other GSK spring out WHAT A *****!! The stud it went on is bent!! It is pretty cockeyed in the bore, but not broken. The springs could barely move on it and were very difficult to get off. I really dont know what my options are at this point. I've tried gently prying the stud into the center of the bore, but it just bounces back to its cockeyed position. Anyone have any ideas or should I go ahead and spend another $100+ for a second tow upto Massdiesel.

Is that stud a removeable piece or does the injector pump have to come off?

Zack

 

Oh man.. how did that get bent??
Id look around for the link to the pump pics cummins had and see if theres anything to give you a clue as to how its put together.
Scott will likely tell you the pump needs to come out and get fixed, then you may as well recalibrate it on the bench.

 

Did you adjust the governor lever after installing the GSK? A bent stud is a very common result of the governor lever screw coming loose and dropping into the fly weights.

You did remove both pieces of the original seat?

 

I bent the stud back and its close, I need to get some verier calipers and make sure the depth of the nut is right, I used to old first click then 2 real clicks so it isnt accurate but i think i salvaged it!! The govenor lever seems to move fine and touch the bottom of the fuel plate squarely with no issue. The one that was bent had the nut on it way too tight I assume thats what caused it somehow?? I drove the truck to work today and it seems fine the RPMs did start to stick on me, but again I need to correctly measure that distance, as im sure its off a bit.

Zack