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How to instructions for R&R 47RE Auto out of 98 4x4??

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Old 11-13-2008, 11:39 AM
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How to instructions for R&R 47RE Auto out of 98 4x4??

I was wondering if anyone had instructions or a link that is buried in here on how to remove auto trans and replace. My trans died out of my 98 4x4 and I am thinking of replacing it with another used 47RE I found on craigslist out of an 95 4x4. I tried the search but didn't have much luck.

Also the trans out of the 95 thats listed on craigslist is $500. Supposedly rebuilt 20K ago. What should I ask about this or check before I buy it?

By the way I talked to Dave Goerend. I'm going with his transmission when I round up $5grand. I want something that is bullet proof. I never want to see my truck towed again with these stock Dodge JUNK transmissions

Thanks.
Old 11-13-2008, 12:07 PM
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Wont work without a bunch of changes, 95 was still a 47RH, not a RE.

Look for 96-99, there were some changes in 2000, not sure if they still were a direct swap.
Old 11-13-2008, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by patdaly
Wont work without a bunch of changes, 95 was still a 47RH, not a RE.

Look for 96-99, there were some changes in 2000, not sure if they still were a direct swap.
Ooooof! Thanks for the heads up.
Old 11-13-2008, 03:18 PM
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The best instructions you will find are in the factory service manual.
The trans fails because the line pressure is too low, quality of assembly, and factory machine work.
Old 11-13-2008, 09:35 PM
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Yeah I hear ya on the quality, assembly, crap components of the stock 47RE trans. So what's the deal on the line pressure too low? Do my lines need to be upgraded or something when I go with a built trans? I plan on ordering a manual.
Thanks.
Old 11-25-2008, 08:39 PM
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A little late to the party, but you didn't get this from me.

TRANSMISSION

The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit repairs.

If only the overdrive unit requires service, refer to the overdrive unit removal and installation procedures.

CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter must be removed as an assembly to avoid component damage. The converter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter is left attached to the driveplate during removal. Be sure to remove the transmission and converter as an assembly.

REMOVAL

Disconnect battery negative cable.
Disconnect and lower or remove necessary exhaust components.
Remove engine-to-transmission struts, if equipped
Transmission-To-Engine Strut Attachment .
Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
Remove starter motor.
Disconnect and remove the crankshaft position sensor. Retain the sensor attaching bolts.
Remove torque converter access cover.
If transmission is being removed for overhaul, remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall pan.
Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal On 4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt attaching transfer case vent tube to converter housing
Fill Tube Attachment .
Mark torque converter and drive plate for assembly alignment. Note that bolt holes in crankshaft flange, drive plate and torque converter all have one offset hole.
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
Mark propeller shaft and axle yokes for assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove propeller shaft. On 4 x 4 models, remove both propeller shafts.
Disconnect wires from park/neutral position switch and transmission solenoid.
Disconnect gearshift rod and torque shaft assembly from transmission.
Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmission bracket and throttle valve lever.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect shift rod from transfer case shift lever.
Support rear of engine with safety stand or jack.
Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember. Raise transmission slightly, slide exhaust hanger arm from bracket and remove rear support.
Rear Support Cushion .
Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
On 4 x 4 models, remove transfer case with transmission jack or aid of helper.
Remove all converter housing bolts.
Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
To remove torque converter, remove C-clamp from edge of bell housing and carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission.
INSTALLATION

Check torque converter hub and hub drive notches for sharp edges burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and notches with 320/400 grit paper and crocus cloth if necessary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump seal at installation.
Lubricate converter drive hub and oil pump seal lip with transmission fluid.
Lubricate converter pilot hub with transmission fluid.
Align and install converter in oil pump.
Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in pump gears.
Check converter seating with steel scale and straightedge Surface of converter lugs should be 1/2 in. to rear of straightedge when converter is fully seated.
Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
Typical Method Of Checking Converter Seating .
Position transmission on jack and secure it with chains.
Check condition of converter driveplate. Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged. Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated in engine block and protrude far enough to hold transmission in alignment.
Raise transmission and align converter with drive plate and converter housing with engine block.
Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower or tilt transmission to align converter housing with engine block dowels.
Rotate converter so alignment marks scribed on converter are aligned with mark on driveplate.
Carefully work transmission forward and over engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in crankshaft.
Install bolts attaching converter housing to engine.
Install rear support. Then lower transmission onto crossmember and install bolts attaching transmission mount to crossmember.
Remove engine support fixture.
Install crankshaft position sensor.
Install new plastic retainer grommet on any shift linkage rod or lever that was disconnected. Grommets should not be reused. Use pry tool to remove rod from grommet and cut away old grommet. Use pliers to snap new grommet into lever and to snap rod into grommet at assembly.
Connect gearshift and throttle cable to transmission.
Connect wires to park/neutral position switch, transmission solenoid(s) and oxygen sensor. Be sure transmission harnesses are properly routed.
CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts that are too long will damage the clutch surface inside the converter.

Install torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. On models with 10.75 in. converter, tighten bolts to 31 Nˇm (270 in. lbs.) On models with 12.2 in. converter, tighten bolts to 47 Nˇm (35 ft. lbs.)
Install converter housing access cover.
Install starter motor and cooler line bracket.
Connect cooler lines to transmission.
Install transmission fill tube. Install new seal on tube before installation.
Install exhaust components.
Align and connect propeller shaft.
Adjust gearshift linkage and throttle valve cable if necessary.
Lower vehicle.
Fill transmission with MoparŽ ATF Plus 3, Type 7176 fluid.
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