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Head/block repair

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Old 05-07-2010, 06:56 PM
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Head/block repair Pics!

what can be done, besides getting a new non abused set. Motor I bought had a pretty bad blown head gsk. It scourd the head and block. It has to be fixable somehow!! Any ideas But It was a running 55psi p-pumper that I got for 800 bucks!! Future plans include, S300 over S400 550-650 hp in my 1st gen!!

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Old 05-09-2010, 02:01 AM
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Your probably looking at a lot of milling. It looks to be at least 20 thousandths or more needed to be removed from the block. I could be wrong because the picture may make it look worse than it is. The head would be something similar, but, the two pot-holes would have to remain, because to mill those out will most likely exceed any safe amount of removal. You may be better off locating a another head. I'd have it checked for cracks, which may ultimately force you to look for another head anyways. You face multiple problems here. Lets just say you can successfully remove the damage by milling, you now face a compression increase that I don't know if there is thicker head gasket to comensate for what needs to be removed and be safe. If no head gasket can correct the compression increase, then you may have to look into getting pistons that the pin position is offset to compensate for the amount you have removed from the block, that is if it needs a lot removed. It all depends on how much has to come off the block. The other issue is valve recession. If you do decide to try and repair the head by milling, you really should have a valve job done. During the process of doing the valve job, the valve recession will be set when they cut the seats. If you just have the head milled and don't assure the valve recession is set correctly, your valves will have big problems with heat. Another potential problem I'm seeing from your photos is the top edge of the piston on the left looks to be damaged. Take a good look at the cylinder walls for scoring. If it was mine, I'd be concerned about damage to the cylinder walls, rings, and piston too. I'm not trying to scare you, but, you may be in for a rebuild just to fix the block and potential damage caused from what I'm seeing at the top edge of the piston. Good luck and I hope the pictures are just making it look worse than it is!
Old 05-09-2010, 10:01 AM
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What are your intentions? From reading your post, a play toy seems to be where this is headed. If its going to be a daily driver I would suggest getting another setup to start with.

Do you have any way of measuring how deep the gas cutting is?

Yes you could mill the block, but the thickest stock head gasket available is .020" over. Problem with that is you'll still be at stock compression and the only way to lower it would be to get lower compression pistons or have those cut down, only trouble with that is you'll cut away the hard anodized top.

I would entertain the ideas of having fire ring grooves cut into the block and head, that's the only way I can see that sealing up.
Old 05-09-2010, 07:45 PM
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Yes, play toy.. But needs to be reliable.. I plan on rebuilding it with new pistons and stuff. Im just wondering if I could tig weld the small holes, stone flat, then mill .010 off the block and head. Use the marine gsk, then o-ring the head and maybe it would be good.
Old 05-09-2010, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DNRCustoms
Yes, play toy.. But needs to be reliable.. I plan on rebuilding it with new pistons and stuff. Im just wondering if I could tig weld the small holes, stone flat, then mill .010 off the block and head. Use the marine gsk, then o-ring the head and maybe it would be good.
you can weld it but you HAVE to follow preheat and post heat procedures to the letter http://www.tristatecylinderhead.com/...rvices_new.php
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