My truck developed a problem this year that wasn't present last year. It actually just started. When the truck sits overnight it will crank and spit and sputter witht the throttle floored. It takes 4-5 crank sessions to actually get it to run. After the truck can idle by itself, I can shut it off and it will start with no throttle as well as when it is up to operating temperature. The wait to start light comes on and the volt gauge moves up when the wait to start light goes off and I hear the relays when they go off. Truck didn't do this last year, it would rotate 3 revolutions and fire right up in 20 degree weather with no block heater. My block heater doesn't work either but it was never a problem until last week. I plow with this truck and I do beat on it but I run 15W40, I've maintained the trans, replaced fuel filters many times. I was thinking of replacing the fuel filter again, its only been 2000 miles since last change. The only thing I can think of is the return line is leaking. Anything else I should look at? Can I test the grid heaters with a multimeter?

 

Could be only one heater is working.
Read this Diagnosing Grid Heater Problems

 

Thanks for the the reading material infidel. Looks like I have my work cut out for me!

 

The next time you cold start pop the hood and push the primer on the lift pump until you hear fuel squirting past the overflow valve,use a short piece of broom handle to reach the primer. If it starts better you have a leak in one of your lines or I've read here the fuel heater leaks around the electrical plug and you can put grease around the plug if you suspect it's that until you can replace it . Mine was a loose clamp on the return line where the rubber connects to the metal line ,overnight that little air leak was draining the line,I previously had no problems starting ,I tightened the clamp and it started fine again. I eventually replaced all the rubber lines because of age. LarryB has them fostertruck.com they are special material so the fuel doesn't degrade them. Mine would also start fine when it was hot it was only giving me trouble if it sat overnight or for a couple of days. Good luck

 

Mrlou has it.. Try the lift pump manually. That would eliminate a possible problem before diving into the heaters.

 

Mrlou, how do I gain access to the clamp on the return line? Is it behind the fuel filter? I followed the hard line from the overflow and all I see is the hard line as it disappears.

 

On my 97 4x4 with man. trans the rubber to metal change is right around where the block meets the bellhousing. I could only see it with a flashlight by looking through the front fender well, between the shock mount tower spring area and plastic inner fender , aiming the light towards the top of the bellhousing .Actually for me it was easier to see the area when it was dark out(like when your truck won't start @ 5a.m. Then I went under the truck with 1/4" drive ratchet and a short 8mm socket, I couldn't see it from under the truck I had to just feel for it but I new where it was. I only turned it about half a turn. when I changed the lines I took the plastic inner fender out, much easier that way. Truth be told I primed it with the short piece of broom handle for a while before I found the clamp , found it by accident when I was looking around with my flash light I notice that the rubber line had some dirt around it and the clamp. The area looked oily. If you see any other connections damp that could be it also. Good luck

 

OK found the problem. Thanks everyone for the ideas!!! One of the lines is leaking diesel fuel right under the drivers side door. The line comes from the tank and is hard metal but then it goes into a braided stainless steel line and then back to hard metal as it goes up toward the engine.

Is that stainless steel line stock? It seems to be leaking right where the hard metal meets the braided stainless steel line. And I can't tell if it's a feed or return line. Would I have bigger problems if it was a feed?

 

Just figure on replacing both from the tank to the engine. You can either go with all diesel rated rubber, or do like some of us did and run metal from the tank to the drivers footwell and rubber from there.

3/8" feed, 5/16" return.

If you don't do both now, you will be doing it later.

And yea, that Stainless line is stock, it is a quick connect, just get rid of it all.

 

The lines upstream of the quick disconnects look brand new, but the lines downstream of the quick disconnects are rusted. So I will do like you say and ditch all of them from the quick disconnects to the tank.

Thanks again everyone.