Hi all, been having some serious issues with the 'ol dodge. I'll start from the beginning. About 3 months ago, the WTS light quit comming on, no big deal. I just waited for it to quit the dinging, then cranked it right up.
About 4 weeks ago, it started taking a long time to fire up when its hot, cold starts just like normal.
About 2 weeks ago, was at wally world, hard hot start. Went to take off, barely touched the throttle and away we went. Some lady thought I was trying to run her over. shut it down, started back up everything fine. Now its a roll of the dice, always hot start issue, but sometimes runs normal, sometimes WOT condition.
What I've done: Replaced LP. Think it was ok, but looked like original, so went with it. Replaced TPS (ok, not right name, but my brain is fried from this atm) Recalibrated TPS several times. Had a friend hook up scanner. He said it took forever to link up with ECM. No codes showing.

Talked to Chip at bluechip, he seems to think the ECM is the culprit. I checked voltages at all sensors, good readings except from TPS with WOT condition, cleaned ALL grounds.

So... I guess what ima wanting to know, does it sound like ECM or should I bolt it all together and take it to dealer? Don't mind spending the money to get it running, just don't want extra labor charge for a parts changer, can do that myself for free hehe.

Thanks in advance for any and all ideas/opinions

Edit: forgot to add, fuel filter changed about 1k ago. right after the hard start issue started.

 

After shutting the engine off and the lift pump stops running, the fuel supply pressure should drop rapidly back to -0-psi. With a hard start concern, fuel pressure takes a long time (10+ seconds) to drop back to -0-psi. The fuel pressure may drop down in 'steps'. These symptoms indicate an internal injection pump problem. If the engine starts better with the lift pump disconnected, replace the injection pump. Another way to check for a faulty injection pump is to use the essential tool #3163834. The tool connects to the fuel injection pump module and isolates the problem to either the pump or to the ECM and wiring harness. Connect the tool's battery clamps to the negative and positive terminals on the battery. If the vehicle still will not start with the tool connected, you will need to replace the fuel injection pump. If the engine does start, the injection pump can be checked further by using the idle button to change between low and high idle speeds. If the engine does not respond, replace the injection pump. If the engine starts and changes idle appropriately with the tool connected, the injection pump is probably okay. IF THE CONCERN IS A HARD START/LONG CRANK TIME AFTER A 10 - 60 MINUTE HOT SOAK, there are NO CODES and fuel supply pressure is good, problem is probably a defective injection pump. A way to confirm this is to duplicate the hard start condition, then (with the engine not running) cool the injection pump with a large quantity of water (e.g. use a garden hose). If the engine start better after cooling the injection pump, the pump needs to be replaced.
Good web site for VP44 diag here

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

Special tool located here, this helps diag if ecm or VP44 pump is defective, eliminates the guess work.
.
http://millerspecialtools.spx.com/De...spx?id=5&gid=3

WAIT-TO-START WARNING LAMP - ECM OUTPUT
The wait-to-start warning lamp is turned on and off by the Engine Control Module (ECM) based on the intake manifold air temperature sensor input.
The lamp is turned on when the key is first activated. If the ECM reads intake manifold air temperature below 19°C (66°F), it will turn the wait-to-start warning lamp on for the air heater pre-heat cycle. The lamp stays on until the pre-heat cycle is over. You may want to check IAT sensor for proper calibration it should read within 10 degrees of digital temp sensor inserted into intake at sensor location at key on.

Most Dodge or Cummins repair shops have this tool.