ndtguy1

I'm wondering if anyone out there has any info on adjusting
the fuel shutdown solenoid linkage on a 95 CTD??? I've noticed that although the plunger has ~2.7" standoff as mentioned in the link I found in the 12v troubleshooting section,this doesn't appear to allow the arm for the plate to rotate to its forwardmost/fully open position. (I removed the solenoid and manually opened the valve for comparison).
As I'm experiencing a poor acceleration condition, I'm wondering if the linkage should be shortened to allow the
arm to rotate further forward and possibly opening the
shutdown valve more towards the manually determined limit
or is the extra travel a "designed" thing to prevent wear &
tear on the valve???

HammerMTB

The governor section of your pump controls your fuel rack. The shut down simply puts your fuel rack in the "no fuel" position. Obviously, this makes the engine stop.
The shutdown linkage (internal) can get in the way of the "throttle" linkage (internal) such that the shutdown isn't letting the throttle open fully. You are looking in the right area. Remove your shutoff solenoid, and hold the bellcrank at its full open position. Operate your throttle. Does it feel normal now? If so, the internal linkage was interfering. The question is, if this happened suddenly, could something be going very wrong inside?
If you are just replacing the solenoid, and need to adjust, put key power to the solenoid, pull it against its spring so it bottoms and holds, then adjust the rod in the plunger until the bellcrank is full open when the solenoid is bottomed. It is important to allow the solenoid to bottom. It's also important to open the bellcrank fully, that's what allows full throttle.
I hope that's clearer than mud.... :

RCW

The problem you describe is common and usually happens when the solenoid bracket is slid sideways to clear the AFC housing when the fuel plate is being moved or changed. The lack of power is also common from the solenoid not opening the fuel shutdown arm all the way.

Straighten the bracket so the solenoid lines up with the fuel shutdown lever. Then set the adjustable plunger shaft to 2.64 inches (2 and 41/64 inches) from the solenoid flange (bolts to the bottom of the bracket), to the top of the hole on the lever pin when the lever pin is fully raised.

You may also have to straighten the rod with the locknut that is in the solenoid, because they sometimes get bent when the entire assembly is slid sideways to clear the AFC housing.

ndtguy1

Well, I pulled the fuel shutdown valve solenoid back out,
along with the mounting bracket. Checked the bracket
and plunger for squareness and then remounted the
solenoid on the bracket (on the bench). Checked the
distance from the bottom face of the mounting bracket
to the top of the hole for the lever pin (& adjusted slightly)
to 2.64". Prior to reinstalling the assembly, I manually rotated the S/D valve lever & measured the distance from the bleed
screw for the line coming the fuel filter to the lever (~.60&quot. Reinstalled the solenoid assembly, turned on the ignition and manually set the plunger (after verifying that the solenoid is bottoming). Remeasured the lever standoff @ ~.90".
I then backed off the mounting bolts for the solenoid & watched to see if the lever would move further towards the full open position (which it did). Should I leave this as is???
Or should I shorten the solenoid plunger??? Or is it possible
that the lever on the S/D valve shaft has moved & needs
adjustment??? (It seems to be tight).

HammerMTB

[quote author=ndtguy1 link=board=16;threadid=22863;start=0#msg214647 date=1069894923]
I then backed off the mounting bolts for the solenoid & watched to see if the lever would move further towards the full open position (which it did). Should I leave this as is???I don't
Or should I shorten the solenoid plunger??? That's what I do, and it seems to work well. Or is it possible
that the lever on the S/D valve shaft has moved & needs
adjustment??? (It seems to be tight). [/quote]
I doubt the lever has moved on the shaft. If it's not loose when you look at it, it didn't.
I make an effort to have the lever move to its limit when the solenoid bottoms. I regard the length spec in the book and/or elsewhere to be a ballpark figure to get you near final adjustment.
I also realize it may allow full rack travel at the book's measured spec, and I'm just being **** about it. I want full travel of the rack for full fuel, tho, and since I can't see it in action, I give it every opportunity from the outside.