mechanic

I've just solved a low power problem I was having. Apparently
the fuel shutdown solenoid was in the process of expiring, and
only pulling up a short distance. This allowed enough fuel to
run, but only up to a maximum of 8 lbs. of boost, and 750* on
the pyro (pre-turbo). At first it seemed like a filter problem,
or a lift pump problem, since I had only heard that they would
cause non-start symptoms. It seems that the cotter pin, or
whatever is holding the lever to the solenoid, had fallen off.
I managed to retain all of the pieces when it fell apart, and
I've put it back together. The only thing that seemed worn was
a spring type c-clip keeper thing that holds the adjustable arm
to the rod that moves as the core of the solenoid. After turning
that around, everything seems to be holding together.

I was just wondering if anyone else had done a fix like this,
if so, how long did it last? I'm thinking if it fails again,
I will use a choke cable to operate the lever, instead of a new
solenoid.

I was also wondering if most people had electrical failure of
the coil, or mechanical failures?

Thanks

finallydiesel

My fuel shut off failed last month. It was the solenoid itself that went south nothing mechanical. Cost me pretty close to $300.00 to have that replaced.

prideofkc

first time for me. 97 w/ cummins. I have replaced the fuel shut off cellinoid, along w/ the starter relay and the fuel relay in the box under the hood. The truck will only start when I turn the key on and manually go out and lift up the shut off cellinoid plunger. Help, does any one know what my problem is?

tmiller24

Hey Pride, Check the relay on the firewall, below the driver side wiper. I believe that one, of that pair of relays, is for the shutdown solenoid.
Tony

mechanic

Pride, If you go here, http://www.fostertruck.com/images/st...%20diagram.jpg
at LarryB's site, you can see the circuit. There are
two coils in the solenoid, a start coil, and a hold coil. The hold
coil is a lower power one that keeps the solenoid engaged.
The higher power one is the one that pulls the arm up, and is
only engaged when the starter is engaged. If you aren't getting
power back up to the relay from the starter relay, the fuel
shutdown solenoid won't get engaged. Or if the contacts in
the fuel shutdown relay were toast you wouldn't be getting
power to the start coil in the solenoid. He also shows you
the location on his site,
http://www.fostertruck.com/images/relay%20location.JPG.
It shows only one relay, but there are two on mine, though I
don't know which is the shutoff relay. You should go here
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/ and look around,
he has contacts, starters, relays and other stuff that might
help you.

Hope this helps.

prideofkc

Thanks I'll head to his sites now.

dodgeman01

I was just wandering what the little boot did on the control arm? Mine fell off because of its age and everythime I take the AFC off the top of the solenoid pops off. will this hurt anything?
Thanks
DM01

mechanic

If, by boot, you mean the flimsy rubber cover on the underneath
side of the solenoid, it's there to keep junk from getting into
the bore of the solenoid. There seemed to be enough clearance
in mine for there to be a little bit of junk on the rod that
slides inside, but my boot is deteriorated, also. I'm not sure
if the top popping off will cause any problems, probably not if
there aren't any wires that can be rubbed or exposed. You could
always try to put a bit of silicone sealer in it and push it
down onto it. I wouldn't think that would hurt.

wiz-1

i have the same problem. mine works a while then stops before i can find the problem. i know its got to be a short but can't find it be fore it starts working again. somebody please help

winner172

I replaced the solenoid boot on mine two weeks ago. It took about ten minutes and cost about $2. Two zip ties and a section of bicycle innertube and you are good to go. Just make sure you clean out the bore of the solenoid before you put it back together.

Mach1

Got one of these I am working on...already went through the solenoid, next replace the relay..

Question, is the rewiring of the relay difficult...If I have to mount it seperately???

The two relays are together??

Dojman

The only problem I've had with mine was that one ear was broken and the other side's screw had backed off(and was stripped, not tightening or coming out). I held the solenoid down on the bracket and welded it to it, no problem

NORM

My experience with the fuel shutoff solenoid.(short version) I have a 96 1 ton. Friday evening labor day weekend about 10:00 heading out to Minnesota. Just passed the last exit of town and ran it up to interstate speed and set the cruise. 5 seconds later it dropped off cruise, ok, just run it back up and reset...we are dead sticking it. coast to the side of the road, engine cranks will not fire. Hot electrical odor (in the cab and under the hood) causes a fast inspection in the dark of night. After some searching (and panic) finally noticed the hard sealant end of the solenoid popped loose and the metal body discolored from heat. Using one of the tarp straps holding the chairs on the back ladder of the slide in, I hook on the lever of the valve pulling it up and strap across the valve covers to the pipes above the turbo, engine starts. Now, open the hood reach in and push the lever down each time to stop engine (explain to puzzled bystanders). The next morning called a Dodge dealer in Morhead MN. $414 for part(go through the weekend opening hood). Get back to town check with local Dodge dealer $438. Some kind of a cable set up is looking real good about now. The down side to that, from the weekend experience is you can pull to a stop, turn (off) the ignition switch, pull hood release, get out to go shut the fuel off, have your brother in law say you should park it over there, get back in, put it in gear,start to drive and not be able to steer because the keys are in your pocket and not unlocking the steering. : All is back to normal now I went to one of the local Cummins repair places and found a update fuel solenoid and bracket that fits our pumps, 3800677 (sold to me for $250). Replaced the mounting bracket, for the larger sized solenoid (clearance not a problem), cut off and installed the plug in off the original Dodge part(color for color), bolted on solenoid. Better than new.

Mach1

You got a good price on the solenoid, compared to what people are paying for new ones...YUKK!!!

Dieseldude4x4

Ripped the spring and plunger out on my old 89 and installed a manual shut down cable to the pump lever. Worked fine.
Solenoid, what solenoid???? ;D 8)