I'm sure it's been asked before, but how do you test what's wrong between the fuel shutoff selenoid or the relay on the firewall? Truck wouldn't stay running after backing my trailer up the drive. Have under a 1/4 tank of fuel, so added some diesel service and still the same. Remembered to check the selenoid and it wouldn't come up when turning the key, so manually did it, and ran well enough to pull it in the garage. I need to buy a spare relay anyways, but it would be nice to know which is bad. Is it pretty self explanitory to clean and lube the selenoid? I beleive it's original. Thanks for your help

 

Nevermind on how to test them, just got done reading the shop manual..! Still wouldn't mind hearing how to clean the selenoid if i don't have to replace it. Thanks

 

After you remove it, pull the plunger and spring out. I clean the bore with a shotgun brush and the plunger with 1000 grit wet/dry. Apply a little dry lube to the plunger and reinstall. If the boot looks bad, throw it away, it will only jam the plunger at the worst possible time. If you think it is worth it, Larry B sells a replacement for about $35. Be careful when removing and reinstalling the spring clip on the rod. It will only fall where it is impossible to see or reach (Murphy's Law).

 

Thanks GAmes, I'll do that this weekend. By "dry lube", you mean silicon or something similar? BTW, man that's alot of miles on your rig, congrats! I have a '06 ranger w/120,000, 2-3 engine rebuilds and it might make it that long, not to mention transmissions, etc., etc...Good luck

 

Silicone will work fine. Just a little, don't drench it.
Sometime this month I'll be changing the sig block to over 600k. I'm at 595 right now.

 

That advice about LarryB's is right on. Great service and the relay solves the problem, at least for me. He also carries a solenoid rebuild kit should you need it.