fuel leak
HELP fuel leak
my 95 dodge has a fuel leak... 1st it looked like it was coming from the bell housing...now it looks like its coming down the fuel lines down the back of the motor.
MY question is?
where do these lines go/come from. I think the return line is leaking.but can not find where it goes.
How do i find the connection???
has anyone else had this problem?
MY question is?
where do these lines go/come from. I think the return line is leaking.but can not find where it goes.
How do i find the connection???
has anyone else had this problem?
Very common problem that will eventually plague all 12 valves. Return rubber line is in red, remove the fuel filter to gain access to the front hose clamp. Other end is on top of the bell housing
Best way to replace the line is to abandon the entire stock line from the engine to the tank and replace with hose.
Make sure to use diesel rated hose, don't trust the auto parts guy who says all hose is diesel rated, it isn't.
Best way to replace the line is to abandon the entire stock line from the engine to the tank and replace with hose.
Make sure to use diesel rated hose, don't trust the auto parts guy who says all hose is diesel rated, it isn't.
Yes, I had the exact same thing happen on my truck. The problem with the changing the return line is that it runs along the bottom of the intake manifold. It sucks to change! I spent a half hour literally laying on top of the engine, as I couldn't figure out a better method of getting my arm in there. I got cut and scratched up and lost a bit of blood doing it, but that's much cheaper than losing diesel at what fuel prices have come to.
I have to do this as well, I have questions
I figured I had a small leak for some time and now it went from small leak to puddles. I am going to do this first of next week. I have a coupel of questions.
1. Does the tank have to be dropped to connect back to the tank?
2. How long of a piece of hose do I need to pick up?
3. About how many beers will it take me to replace?
4. Anything else I should check while working in that area? I just changed the filter a few weeks ago. I know it is not leaking at the filter canister, it is definatly comeing from behind there.
Thanks.
1. Does the tank have to be dropped to connect back to the tank?
2. How long of a piece of hose do I need to pick up?
3. About how many beers will it take me to replace?
4. Anything else I should check while working in that area? I just changed the filter a few weeks ago. I know it is not leaking at the filter canister, it is definatly comeing from behind there.
Thanks.
1. The tank does not have to be dropped. When I replaced both the send and return lines, I was able to sit with my torso between the frame rail and the outer bed skin. It takes a little bit to get into position, but, it can be done. Once there, you'll be looking right at the connections on top the tank.
2. I bought two 14 foot lengths of each hose. I used Trident Marine Fuel Hose #365, barrier lined. If I remember correctly, it was Type A1 SAE J1527 rated. The return hose was 5/16" ID and the send was 3/8" ID. When I made the connections at the tank, I did not remove the quick disconnects, I just cut the plastic fuel tubing at a point that I could slide the new hoses over them and clamped. The point was just as the old lines came out from between the frame rail and the tank, but, before they turned over the tank. It worked great.
3. I'm not sure how many beers, but, it's not a stressfull job, so hard alcohol won't be needed.
4. You may want to pick up another fuel filter. I removed mine to make working on the return line in that area easier. The larger of the two filter o-rings instantly expanded apon removal. There was no way I was getting it back in due to how large it swelled. Luckily, I had a another filter on hand.
Good luck!
2. I bought two 14 foot lengths of each hose. I used Trident Marine Fuel Hose #365, barrier lined. If I remember correctly, it was Type A1 SAE J1527 rated. The return hose was 5/16" ID and the send was 3/8" ID. When I made the connections at the tank, I did not remove the quick disconnects, I just cut the plastic fuel tubing at a point that I could slide the new hoses over them and clamped. The point was just as the old lines came out from between the frame rail and the tank, but, before they turned over the tank. It worked great.
3. I'm not sure how many beers, but, it's not a stressfull job, so hard alcohol won't be needed.
4. You may want to pick up another fuel filter. I removed mine to make working on the return line in that area easier. The larger of the two filter o-rings instantly expanded apon removal. There was no way I was getting it back in due to how large it swelled. Luckily, I had a another filter on hand.
Good luck!
Thanks for the info
Appreciate the reply. Its good to know about the hard alcohol. Working on the truck never goes good with that stuff.
I guess I will replace both lines while I am under there using diesel fuel for hand lotion.
Thanks again.
Mike
I guess I will replace both lines while I am under there using diesel fuel for hand lotion.
Thanks again.
Mike
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1. The tank does not have to be dropped. When I replaced both the send and return lines, I was able to sit with my torso between the frame rail and the outer bed skin. It takes a little bit to get into position, but, it can be done. Once there, you'll be looking right at the connections on top the tank.
Good luck!
Good luck!
I tried this but it was not happening for me. Guess my fat forearms and fingers didn't help.
I ended up tilting the bed.
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