I have a 1994 2500 diesel that needs a new u-joint and brake disc front left. The vehicle spent its life in salty Vermont winters and has a lot of corrosion on the undercarriage.
The hub-to-knuckle bolts will probably be frozen like traitors in Dante's ninth circle of hell. Maybe I could get them out with my limited tools (no air wrench), and maybe I could get the wheel studs out too. But maybe I couldn't. So I was wondering, is it feasible to unbolt the knuckle? That way I could take the whole assembly to a shop and have them do whatever it takes.

 

Of course. But, if you can't get the big center nut loose, you will need to pull the axle shafts with it.

 

The axle just pulls right out, doesn't it?

 

You really need a large socket wrench and sockets, maybe you can rent some. Loosen the big nut before you get the wheel off the ground. I stood on the bar lol. The bolts on the hub are 12pt. Getting the hub out of the knuckle is the biggest challenge. Do a search on hub removal

 

Okay, now I know what you guys are talking about. The big nut on the outside of the wheel. Best to get that off first.
Then I have to either get the hub-to-knuckle bolts out or else take the whole knuckle out and work at it on a bench or take it to a shop.

 

The hub will come out, there are several tricks that people on here have found, but a little PB Blaster, a torch, and a hand held sledge will get it out. That and A LOT of wailing will work.

 

The powersteering trick worked fantastic for me, but mine certainly wasn't corroded like yours. Regardless, save yourself trouble in the future, and put it all back together with antisieze.

 

Read> https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&postcount=10

 

x2 on the torch

 

Just my tip on removing the big freaking nut, if it's in the northeast and hasn't been removed in 5 years I just split it. I've personally stripped threads off of the axle stub shaft 3 times while removing it. Usually it takes me (240 lbs) standing on 2-4 feet of leverage. If it doesn't come off easily, I don't risk it and drill a few small (1/8 inch or so) holes through the nut parallel to the axle shaft 180 degrees apart and drive a small chisel into it, away from the shaft to keep the threads good. If you're changing the bearing anyway you don't have to worry about drilling too deep or hitting too hard....