I looked in the sticky and didn't find anything. I have removed the brake caliper and now am at a loss. I can't figure out how to remove the hub and brake disk assembly. Can someone help me quick I am trying to get the new kingpins in for work tomorrow and I need the drive shafts removed. Thanks.

 

Ok here I go. I tried this but found out you need a special soket once you get to the lock assembly. You need to take off the snap ring in the middle of the axle THEN precede to take off another snap ring on the outside of the hub. Then all the gearing should pull out....A flat blade screw driver works great to get the outside ring out. Then you stick that socket in there and get the nut off the spindle. What ever you do, Do NOT take the gearing apart. Took me to days to get a stupid plastic sleeve back in. If this dont make sense, then somebody else will chime in.

I will do my rotors here soon as I only got as far as needing the socket. Didnt have the socket and put it back together b/c I needed to go to work the next day.

dieseljon

 

After you remove the two snap rings, take two of the allen screws that held the hub cover on and screw them into two opposing holes on the inner hub a couple turns------makes it real easy to remove with the screws to grab hold of. Also some times you push the axel in and don't realize you pushed it in, then when you're putting it back together you can't get the little snapring on. Reach behind the hub rotor assembly and push it back out, don't try to pound the hub in farther.

 

I removed one snap ring is there another I'm missing?

 

If pirate4x4.com wasn't down right now I would post you a link to the D60 bible in the tech section. There is a military CCUV service manual in PDF format on there. It is a chevy but the axle is 95% the same thing.

Andy

 

Thanks for all your help guys. I sure hate working on something the first time but after this it'll probably be real easy.

 

Give me a couple'a three hours (+/-) to post a "How-To" Thread.

 

There's one that snaps onto the end of the axel (it's a regular ol snap ring) then ther's one large one just in side where the hub cover goes and it doesn't have a flat area with two holes in it like a standard snap ring. It's like a piece of heavy piano wire formed into a bout 4 in diameter circle and where the ends come together they are just beveled a little to get a little screwdriver between them. (I'm confusing myself trying to splain things!!!!!)

 

I got the 2 snap rings off and have all the gears out for the hubs now I just have to track down the 4 prong tool to remove the spindle nut. In removing all this I discovered that the actual kingpins are real bad too. Great! Now I will have to change the kingpins aswell which I'm told is a nightmare. I am going to take pictures of everything so I can post it in case other people are feeling as adventurous or stupid (?) as me. Thanks again for all the input.

 

the socket you can get from napa...

 

Yeah, I'll have to go towmorrow, I didn't make it before eveything closed tonight. I'm thinking I'll probably do the hub bearings at the same time as the rest since I'll have it apart and the bearings are cheap. Then the only thing left will be front and rear diff bearings and everything in the drivetrain will be new (under 1 year old) except for the T-case (that's a winter project). If only the body looked as good as it is mechanically.

 

Friend of mine works at an offroad shop and redoes a decent amount of D60F axles. They just weld a length of strap to the upper kingpin and use it to break it loose. The welding heat helps loosen it, then you beat on the end to turn it loose.

They gotta lot of torque on them. Rebuild for that step by step on POR board as well.

 

Yeah, a buddy of mine works at an offroad shop too and he has a huge allan key that fits and has an end on it to fit a socket. The welding is a good idea too though I'll probably have to use torches.

 

The top ones ain't a whole lot of fun, but the bottom ones are a breeze, if they need changed at all. New bearnings/races may be all you need for the bottom. I changed my top ones last year. Getting the old ones off is obviously gonna be the hard part. The FSM calls for them to be torqued to 600 ft/lbs. No that's not a typo I said SIX HUNDRED FOOT POUNDS!

Once you get to them you'll need a 7/8" Allen wrench, and a L-O-N-G cheater bar! Be careful tho, when they break loose it'll sound like a rifle being fired! And you'll probably end up on your backside,(I did!) so be prepared for them to break without warning! once their broke they'll unscrew by hand (mine did)

On reinstallation I used the roughest toughest Loctite I could find and tightened them down with the Allen/cheater combo as much as I dared. I was actually scared of pulling the truck off the jackstands! Then I took the cheater off leaving the allen wrench in the pin, grabbed my 3lb. sledge and beat the tar out of the allen.

To this day I really don't understand the 600ft/lbs. The kingpin really cant go anywhere. What with that gasser valve spring looking spring that keeps pressure on the nylon bushing. But, maybe that's why I'm not an engineer!

Good luck Johnny

 

I think Andy means this:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...nt%20Axle).PDF

Full list of all PDF's

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...DFs/index.html