12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

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Old 02-18-2008, 06:02 PM
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the line running from the afc to your turbo is your wastegate line. check to see what turbo you have hx35 or wh1c theres a tag on the comprseeor housing or shuld be inf its stock?. my 95 has a wh1c. you can also mess with your overflow valve, i used a spring from a pen and im idling at 30+psi or so.
Old 02-18-2008, 06:15 PM
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The only line running to the back of my AFC is from the Intake elbow... and the only lines that are on the turbo is the Oil line, and on the wastegate is the rubber line that goes to the compressor side of the turbo

Its A HX35W
Old 02-18-2008, 09:10 PM
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Auto & manual trans use a slightly different plumbing scheme for boost pressure to the wastegate actuator.

Auto: Wastegate actuator is a short line completely on the turbo. It taps charge air or boost pressure from the compressor housing (on the turbo).

Manual: Wastegate actuator is a long line that goes over to the pump side of the engine from actuator that "tees" into the boost sense line.

Both use a boost sense line that taps into the intake manifold and runs to the AFC. The "tee" on manuals is what throws a lot of people

A common boost control is a bleed elbow that you add in the wastegate line. It bleeds off boost pressure keeping the wastegate closed longer.

I originally disconnected the wategate and plugged the compressor housing as you mentioned. Problem is I could hit 40 psi boost. Head gasket held that for nearly 2 years.

My first faltality was the torque converter lockup clutch. I roasted that with a combo of GSK and #4 plate.
Old 02-19-2008, 10:53 PM
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boost line

Originally Posted by dodgedually96
Can anyone tell me what that line is coming out of the back of the AFC housing that runs by the intake elbow?
this line supplys boost pressure to your pump with out it you will have crappy performance
Old 02-19-2008, 11:09 PM
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Alright Guys, now I am curious i have been poking through some of these threads and i hear about people grinding down their fuel plate to 0....How can you do that (don't trust myself doing it unless i have a spare fuel plate) can anyone explain the process to me for when i get a new fuel plate i can screw around with the other(plan on getting a #10 nothing to fancy). Another thing is how would you do a TC lock up, can you only do that with certain TC's or all or what, if so how is that also done?
Old 02-20-2008, 04:45 PM
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Fuel plate grinding is pretty simple I find it easiest on a bench grinder, but there are other methods. There's a profile guide floating around on here somewhere that is very helpful when your doing this. I've got it on my computer at home, try to dig it up when I get off work if nobody else has it handy.
Old 02-20-2008, 08:39 PM
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hey i need to know what way to turn the star wheel? thanks
Old 02-21-2008, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kyle_truck_pull
hey i need to know what way to turn the star wheel? thanks
You would turn it forward or towards the motor
Old 02-21-2008, 04:29 PM
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Alright now, Gauges are going to be here on the 26th (boost and pyrometer)....are their any simple tricks to hook them up with ease or should i just do what the guide tells me to.... ?
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