Free Mod's..."for dummies"
02-14-2008, 07:55 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mitchell, South Dakota
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Free Mod's..."for dummies"
Yes i know this has been covered, but like i noted before i'm new working around a 12V cummins and would like a "Free mod's for Dummies" version of what you guys are talking about, i under stand some lingo but not all and i get confused and then i dont know what im looking for. I want to be able to do anything and everything thing myself on my truck so the more Pic's that i see help me understand the lingo better
anything will help
anything will help
02-14-2008, 08:09 PM
#2
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Place with no quail:(
Posts: 3,337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Open the pics in the link at the bottom in a new tab, those pics are what helped me understane what the parts of the pump look like, and how they work together. Let me know if you still have questions.
To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more top end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
Here are some cutaway pics of a P-Pump, they should help you understand how things work- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more top end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
Here are some cutaway pics of a P-Pump, they should help you understand how things work- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
02-15-2008, 06:41 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: St Augustine, Florida
Posts: 755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-16-2008, 08:30 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mitchell, South Dakota
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another question i only see one line coming out of the back of the AFC housing and that leads by the Intake elbow if i remeber correctly, its plastic is that the correct one ?
Trending Topics
02-16-2008, 09:51 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mitchell, South Dakota
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so that is the wastgate line correct? i noticed i forgot to mention what i was tryin to figure out so i plug it i can get more boost...
02-16-2008, 10:48 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Repeat after me. There is NO such thing as free.
Without dropping the cash for gauges, free mods will turn very expensive.
A comment on boost sense line leads me to assume you have an automatic. A stock auto does not hold up well to engine mods.
Without dropping the cash for gauges, free mods will turn very expensive.
A comment on boost sense line leads me to assume you have an automatic. A stock auto does not hold up well to engine mods.
02-17-2008, 07:27 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mitchell, South Dakota
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In a couple of months ill be getting a new tranny (nothing wrong with current one) but i just would like to know for when i want to do it i can, im having way to much fun learning how to mod my truck and know my way around it better. And their is no need to jump all over me, i know that with mods i need a EGT gauge and a Boost gauge and with my auto i need a tranny temp gauge. I know what i need to do i just would like to know for future reference.
02-18-2008, 05:38 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Fort Collins CO
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've also heard that stickers add Horsepower, something to the tune of 1 HP per inch of the sticker. Not free, but pretty cheap, all of the ricers seem to like the benefits for some reason.
02-18-2008, 05:43 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mitchell, South Dakota
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well then i should have like an extra 20hp then, i got 2 cummins power stickers runnin down the side of my hood, a ram head in the back window and a Dodge Makes It Cummins Shakes It sticker in the back also
02-18-2008, 05:44 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your wastegate control should be a line around the turbo elbowed into the compressor.
-John