Fly wheel
I don't think the flywheel would be milled. Just the clutch side surface "faced". There is just a rock that reworks the surface and gives the clutch a new area to beging life with. Of course the pilot bearing bearing is different. If that were to be changed it would have to be.. But then I guess if the surface was burned up it would have to be milled.
Forget it. I didn't say anything.
..Preston..
Forget it. I didn't say anything.
..Preston..
Same same as havin your rotors turned, the f/whl can only be machined so many times before it is out of spec meaning say you can only machine it .30 (just throwing a number out there) then it's junk. How would you shim it anyway? The only way it could be shimmed is a shim between the flywheel and the crank which would have absolutely no change on clutch engagement but only change the correct operating geometry between the f/whl and crank.
In short the machine shop should have the maximum tolerances per application and not exceed them, once tolerances are reached time for another flywheel.
In short the machine shop should have the maximum tolerances per application and not exceed them, once tolerances are reached time for another flywheel.
Pressure Plate/Flywheel
I know this doesn't mean a hill of beans but I have been working for the DOD here in the country of Panama for many years now. Here new is purchased when used cannot be found and/or rebuilt in some form. Parts are just to expensive. As far as machining the pressure plate and flywheel the amount taken off (up to limits) is compensated for in the thickness of the clutch itself. Here they resurface clutches rather than replace them so they are able to make the clutch itself thicker to compensate for the material removed in the machining of the pressure plate and flywheel. Many time clutches are not available or are just too expensive. I pulled my transmission to replace my front/rear seal and oil pan gasket at 100,000 miles and went ahead and had the clutch resurfaced as the cost of having to buy a clutch assembly was rediculous especially knowing that my pressure plate and flywheel were still well within tolerances. I cleaned them up with scotchbrite pads on my drill and paid $35.00 to have the clutch linings replaced and the springs adjusted. Works like a charm and cost 1/10 of the price of a very cheap clutch assembly. I am well on my way to another 100,000 miles with no problems.
thanks guys for thr replys. this is why I asked this, changed out my clutch, got the fly wheel turned, when I went to pick it up the man handed me a shim,
. asked what was it for , that was what he told me to shim up what he had talking off of the fly wheel , so I went by a trans shop I know of, guess what,, they have them to and sell them, so I was confused, I did not put the shim in, when I put it back togther, becouse all the years and all the clutchs I had installed I never did this , and there was not much taking off the fly wheel ,
jman
. asked what was it for , that was what he told me to shim up what he had talking off of the fly wheel , so I went by a trans shop I know of, guess what,, they have them to and sell them, so I was confused, I did not put the shim in, when I put it back togther, becouse all the years and all the clutchs I had installed I never did this , and there was not much taking off the fly wheel ,jman
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Putting a shim behind the flywheel, I would be more afraid of the starter alignment than the clutch alignment. I have been working on this stuff for near 50 years and have never heard of shimming the flywheel. Guess that is a generation gap...
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