I was thinking about what guys have been saying about using a dial indicator to adjust the timing on a 12v. Could you not use the flow timing method instead then you would not have to buy the dial indicator?

 

Never heard of the flow timing method.
Could you explain it?

 

First remove #1dv holder and remove dv and reinstall holder.
Next block fuel return line which in this case the overflow valve will do that for you as there is no real fuel pressure.
Next supply fuel pressure to the injector pump while slowly turning engine in direction of rotation.
Just as fuel starts to appear at #1dv stop. That is your point of injection and your timing mark. Back up engine and bring forward slowly again to verify.
Remove Inj. pump gear and rotate engine to desired degrees of advance and reinstall pump gear. Back up engine a bit and bring forward slowly to point where fuel just begins to appear and stop. Check your timing mark to see if it is where desired. Back up engine and bring forward to verify. If it is not exactly where you want it repeat above prcedure untill you are satisfied with results. If it is where it is supposed to be then reinstall dv and torgue holder and reinstall line.

 

Sawyer1,

Where are ya in Alberta??? Princess Auto just had dial indicators on sale (under $30 for both)...they may even still be on sale

 

For this to work....please correct me if I am wrong. You would still need to find TDC and use a degree wheel or timing tape ?

 

Top dead center is not really an issue here. You sort of assume your damper is correctly marked. I guess if you were really worried about TDC. you could pull your front valve cover and pull the injector and guage TDC.that way.

 

to do this correctly, you must first determine where TDC is at and mark your balancer. most common way is drop valve method. The next big hurdle to overcome is being able to supply a constant pressure and flow to the pump, the lift pump will not give the needed results. you must hook up a remote fuel source with a electric pump capable of the task, as was said you need to install a timing wheel on the damper and a pointer on the engine, roll over engine till fuel just begins to flow, this is where the margin of error comes in, some people like to see a drip every second, others like to see two or three drips, thus altering the timing. if it is not where one likes on the degree tape you must break the gear loose and re set and re test, very time consuming and tedious job.
this method is also known as "Spill Port Timing". It will get a engine running and be pretty close but I believe the dial indicator method to be more precise. The thing to remember when using the dial indicator method is to remember that different pumps have different amounts of lift for the same degree of timing. KNOW WHAT PUMP THAT YOU HAVE is the key thing here. Hope this helps.

 

I was wondering about timing on my, new to me CTD, Here is the " bubble methed" that I use on my MB diesels, would it work for my Cummins?


"On the subject of diesel timing. If you are replacing the pump or rebuilding
the engine. The simplest and most accurate way of setting the pump is:
Disconnect the fuel line going into the pump from the filter. Take the
spring and plunger out of #1 delivery valve, put the delivery valve back
in and snug it down, hold the pump linkage in the full open position.
If you don't mind the taste of diesel you can blow through the fuel
line or use low air pressure. Put the open end of the injector line in a
glass of water and watch the bubbles. Turn the engine slowly until the
bubbles stop and check the timing mark. After tightening the pump recheck.
This method is really more precise than it needs to be and, although it
may sound complicated, it is very easy."
>

 

Spill port meathod is the most persise way to get the timing dead on.

 

One thing I forgot to mention was that the fuel solenoid has to be on and throttle in full fuel position while doing the procedure. My old mind tends to forget things these days.

 

Would this be the same as flow timing?

 

Spill port is the same as flow ... but the equipment to do this cost many many times more than the dial method ...

 

Sounds like more MBers. I never really tried the drip tube method, didn't sound accurate enough. Instead I got the IP cam locking tool to set the timing, it is a simple go or no-go type thing when setting it so you are certain you're dead on rather than messing with fuel flow and drip tubes.

As for our CTDs, the dial gauge itself is pretty cheap the holder is probably more money than the gauge as it is a special tool for the motor. I just paid to get my timing set as I couldn't see spending the money on the tools to only use them once.

 

Right, thats why I am wondering if theres a cheaper way to do it

I didnt have much luck with that drip method, but its reported to be very accurate. My 4 cylinder engs (616s) dont have the option of using the locking tool on the IP, which has gota be the best way of timing a MB. These CDTs are sure a different critter than the MBs. Not having a few parts cars (trucks) in the "back 40" is a real disadvantage too

 

You dont have to have the dial indicator holder. I used my regular two piece magnetic base. There is a nice flat spot on the head just in front of the intake manifold. I didn't even have to have an indicator extension, you do with the special holder from what I understand. I bought the indicator and base for less than 20 bucks from Harbor Freight.