Hi everyone,

On my FL 60 w/5.9 CTD the engine has began to 'race' a little on the upshift. What I mean is as I work my way up the gears from a stop, the engine RPM's arent dropping the way they should as I disengage the clutch each time. For example when I clutch at say, 1800 RPM the engine tachs up to 2200 then drops (slower than it should). My foot is off the throttle of course.

Now when I slip the engine out of gear from 5th the RPMs drop almost like they should but clearly something has changed in the last 200 miles.

Any ideas? Is it something obvious...like a linkage that needs lubricating, etc. It was dark when I put er away this evening so I'll investigate tomorrow.

 

Let me see if I've got this straight- Say you're going from 3rd to 4th, light load. You let off the gas and push in the clutch - and the RPM goes UP? If that's what's happening, it sounds like something's up with the governor and could possibly result in a runaway.

 

Yes, the RPM's seem to go up but momentarily...and the RPM decrease has become much slower than it was even earlier today.

I put about 400 miles on her today. First half of the trip was fine.

Return trip was bouncy since I sold (and removed) the bed that was on the truck. Possible could have jostled something?

 

Yeah, that doesn't sound good. The governor nuts might be backing off, or one of the governor springs might have broken. On the bright side, you could take this opportunity to put a 4000 RPM governor spring kit in. ;D

 

4000 RPM!?

Tryin to get me to blow the thing up?

 

You don't have to take it to 4K but it will make alot more useable HP.
But on the engine a 3K kit would prob. be better.
I assume it's a rollback or mower hauler or something .
If it has a stick an engine brake would be a great mod.
I'm fixxin to do the same to a rollback here lcoaly for a friend.


: Eddie : 8)

 

Thanks everybody.

I assume it has a 3000 kit on it now, although I haven't really found the top yet. Haven't been looking for it actually.

Right now the truck (cab + chassis) is like a 252" wheel base. Soon, I'll have the frame whacked and put a 16 foot hooklift on it for haulin stuff.

If I was planning on burning the tires like some of you guys do then yeah, I'd spend a bunch of $$$ on performance mods. Although, it would be cool to watch it do it though 8)

It appears that the return to idle (throttle?) spring is weak. I'll replace it and see if that doesn't clear up the problem. The reason the engine seemed to race is...and this is just a theory...the momentum of the increasing engine RPM while upshifting wasn't negated by the spring.

As I mentioned when I drop it out of 5th as I approach a stop or whatever she shuts down pretty good but by that time I have been off the throttle for a second or two.

Anyway, no need to beat a dead horse but thanks again to everyone who read and responded to this thread.

Ed

 

Stupid question, whats a FL60?

 

[quote author=turfquip link=board=16;threadid=22441;start=0#msg209936 date=1068924783]
Thanks everybody.

I assume it has a 3000 kit on it now, although I haven't really found the top yet. Haven't been looking for it actually.


Ed
[/quote]

Just because it will rev to 3K doesn't mean it has a 3K gov. kit.
It's prob. starts to defuel earlier if it is stock.
A 3K kit will give it full rack till 3K or a little more.
That means alot more useable HP.


: Eddie : 8)

 

[quote author=Partsman link=board=16;threadid=22441;start=0#msg209962 date=1068930866]
Stupid question, whats a FL60?
[/quote]
Not a stupid question. FL60 is a baby Freightliner, around 25,000 pound GVW. See what your Cummins is capable of dragging around?

 

If you have the big fuel injection pump, Y pump, pull the side plate and fish around with a magnet. I bet you find a washer from the original governor spring system that got dropped during the conversion. If you have the P pump, check to be certain that you have set the tension on the governor springs properly. The symptom you describe is usually because one of the bolts has backed off, or one washer is missing, and is letting the spring relax too far. You will see about a 200 RPM crawl if this happens.

If, by chance, you have been running without the fuel cam plate, put that back in. I have seen this condition happen from the fueling rod overextending and hammering the unloader and causing a momentary fuel pressure increase upon throttle release. If that is the case, it is only a matter of time before you break the pump. Also, if this was the case, go ahead and order your new pump, as the control tolerances on the fueling helix are beat out and it will come to a halt anytime now (usually after tossing a bunch of metal into your injectors, too).

 

i drove one of them little fright shakers for a couple months, after driving that thing all day it sure makes a guy like the power of the same size motor in his pick-up