grouch

I'll be heading down to look at a 1998 Ram 2500 truck in a few days. Any tips on what to look for as to what engine and fuel pump is in it? I know the build date is on the cab in a couple of places but engines tend to get changed from time to time. A late model truck would probably be unmolested but after 12 years, who knows what lurks in the hearts of men......and trucks.

The seller is an unknown quantity. Around here, I can ask my buddies about someone and how honest they are. I also plan to run a CarFax on it before I leave any money. I don't want to low ball a good truck but I don't want to get gouged either. I'm getting too old to play games, I just want a decent truck I don't have to throw major bucks at.

Copenhagenjunkie

98=12 valve and mech pump
timing cover dowel pin problem, cant see nothing w/o taking cover off though.
It is very likely to have the dreaded 53 block.


98.5= 24 valve and elec pump and on the valve cover and on the door it will say 24v.
Possible timing cover prob also.
53 block also.
Need to check fuel pressure with gauge if it doesn't have one.

grouch

I knew there was a change in mid year as I've seen references to 98.5 trucks. Stickers in the door can be wrong if the engine was swapped at some time in the past. I was wondering if there is a visible change to the injector pump or other outside parts to tell the two apart. It's 145 miles to go one way to look at the truck and I don't plan to make too many trips. One to look at it and leave a deposit and then go back with the rest of the money and the title to my car he wants. The title on my old beater truck says 1984 but there's not much of the original truck left.

cmac

first two pics are a 12V with the p7100 injection pump. second are the 24V with the VP44 injection pump. these are one of the easiest ways to tell them apart.

rattlerbob5.9

Very simple wide one piece wide valve cover = 24 valve .

6 little ones underneath a plastic cover = 12 valve. 6x2=12

Tate

The 7th or 8th digit in the VIN (can't remember which) is a D if its a 12v, and a 6 if its a 24v. 24v will have an emblem saying such on the door, 12v just says Cummins Turbo Diesel. Tach redline is at 3000 on a 12v, 3250 on the 24v. But the easiest way is to just look at the engine, as stated earlier.

Chances of having a 12v with a 24v swapped in is real unlikely. The otherway around, slightly more likely, but still very remote.

grouch

Great! That's exactly what I was wanting to know. That is a great help, thanks. Since I first turned a wrench in the late 1960's, I've seen all sorts of amalgamations of parts. Less desirale engines will be put in if that's all the owner has handy and he or she is cheap, or broke. This is why I signed up with this site. I did hear about the seller of the truck I plan to look at next weekend. He sometimes is a bit shady.