Hey guys, I'm out there doing my timing right now. I barred the engine over until the exhaust valve started closing, then I stopped barring. Then I pushed in the timing pin and I heard one click. I couldn't believe I coincidentally stopped barring the engine at exactly TDC, so I applied some forward pressure to the timing pin and barred the engine a little more. Now the timing pin won't go in any further no matter how much I turn the engine.

Was that initial click a safety lock for the pin so it doesn't accidentally pop in when the engine is on? Or did I just break the pin because I barred the engine over a little more after I felt the click? I have a feeling the pin was already sheared or broken. You think it would hurt it to just leave it the way it is, and continue with the drop valve method?

 

They are usually pretty sticky. How far in do you think it went? It goes in about 3/8" when it drops in the hole, but you can work it in and out 1/16" or so anywhere on the gear.

It's plastic, so if you broke it it's no big deal. The valve drop is more accurate anyway, the pins have been known to be as much as 3 degrees off from the factory.

Make a reference mark on the damper after you find TDC so you don't have to go through this monkey motion again.

 

Thanks for the reply. I'd say it popped in about 1/8" or so. I'm going to go ahead and try the drop valve method. Glad I can just leave the pin alone. I was afraid that I broke the pin and now I had to fish out the broken piece somehow.

 

BTW, if the pin were broken, the broken piece would just shred up in the cam gears and fall into the oil pan right?

 

I've always used the drop-valve method... far more precise!

 

When you say drop-valve method you're talking about watching no.6 for overlap right? If you're not sure about the pin you can just take it out and look at it. Usually on some of the backhoes with the 4bt the pins are so hard to pop in by hand I take the pin out look for the hole with a light and go from there.

 

You can always pull the pin completely out and you will know for sure. A good solid pull and it should pop out (at least mine did). It actually made it easier on me as I used a mirror to locate the little hole that the pin fits into anyways.

There is a star type lock washer (spring steel) that holds the pin in. Does not take much to get it out with a screwdriver either. If you can't see it, then use a mirror.

To reinstall, just use a piece of pipe to push the washer back in. KD

 

drop-valve = adjust the snot out of one of the valves on the #1 cyl so that when you turn the engine over the piston contacts the valve... make a mark on your balancer... then rotate the engine back over the other direction till the piston hits the valve. mark the balancer... measure exactly between those marks and there's your true TDC mark on the #1. lock up your pump nut, turn the engine till you get your desired plunger lift, unlock the nut, turn the engine over to TDC, lock it up, verify, and enjoy